Homemade wood tenoning machine

Types of tenoning machines

A tenon saw is a type of woodworking machine. There are samples of both imported and domestic production on the market. The fixing elements on it can be processed for subsequent connection of products at an angle, as well as for their merging (dovetail folds are used).

Machines for milling tenons are divided into frame machines and box machines according to their intended purpose.

In this case, frame units are:

unilateral In one pass, the tenons are processed on one side of the workpiece;
two-way automated. The design of a tenoning machine involves placing supports on two columns and, accordingly, processing the workpiece on both sides.

Naturally, the productivity of double-sided tenoning machines is much higher than their analogues. There are several types of units, which differ in length, and they come in 2, 2.5, and 3 meters.

The cutting tools for them are cross-cut saws and cutters (disc and end) for processing straight tenons, lugs on frames and frames of various wooden structures.

The formation of box and dovetail tenons is done on specialized machines, mainly in large-scale and mass production. At the same time, there are two types of dovetail fixation: with rounded and sharp corners.

The first category is produced on multi-spindle tenoning machines. Such shaped protrusions are processed simultaneously on the mating surfaces using modular cutters. It is this connection that guarantees the durability and reliability of the fixing unit.

When producing the most complex oval dowels (small tenons) and those with a round shape, automatic tenoning machines with numerical control are used.

Device for milling the dovetail-dovetail joint

The illustration shows a tooling that allows you to mill a series of evenly spaced slots for straight or dovetail inserts. Cut a V-shaped notch in the workpiece, then install a 3/4-inch straight bit in the router and set the tool in the router table.

equipment for making a dovetail-dovetail connection

Screw the equipment to the miter gauge and feed it onto the cutter to make a turnkey groove. Install and glue the wooden key into the groove, reinstall the device on the miter gauge so that there is a distance between the key and the cutter and it is equal to the interval that you want to make between inserts.

Feed the jig onto the router bit to mill the second slot. Install a 1/2-inch dovetail bit and adjust the depth of cut so that the full dovetail shape is above the base of the recess.

To use the jig, clamp the workpiece into the V-shaped notch of the jig, pressing the workpiece against the key, and rout the first slot. To mill the next grooves, just move the workpiece with the groove onto the key, and you can feed the workpiece to the cutter again.

Specifications

The operator’s functions when working on an automatic machine are reduced to loading and turning workpieces, starting or stopping the cycle. Important indicators of tenoning units are:

largest peg size;
the smallest thickness;
groove height;
width;
maximum workpiece size;
spindle speed;
engine power.

In addition to the characteristics for classifying the machine, the parameters of the cutting tool are indicated: saw diameter, type and size of cutter.

Often on large production lines such equipment is installed to the ceiling. The machines are additionally fixed with clamping devices, where the workpieces are processed by scoring saws, followed by the formation of tenons on milling supports.

The feed is adjusted smoothly using a variator. To create a high-quality surface of the mating elements, the spindle speed should be about 700 rpm.

Manufacturing of equipment for box connection

This product allows you to mill box joint grooves one at a time on a milling table. In our case, it is simply an additional board, screwed onto an angle stop and having a key, with which we will determine the exact interval between the grooves.

simple device for making box joints

Install a straight cutter with the diameter of the required groove width; Place the router on the table. Set the routing depth equal to the thickness of the existing board and mill a groove into it. After this, unscrew the board from the miter gauge and move it so that the gap between the groove and the cutter is equal to the width of the cutter.

Mill a groove in the board again, this time the second one (on the right). Cut a key out of the wood so that it fits exactly into the first groove and place it on the glue, so that it will be approximately 25 mm from the groove on the additional board.

Milling grooves in the first workpiece

Place the workpiece with its front surface against the additional miter fence board, pressing one of its edges against the key. Turn on the router and, holding the workpiece firmly against the fence, move it onto the cutter, milling the first groove. U

Principle of operation

When forming pegs, a sawing and milling procedure is usually used. An appropriate cutting tool is used to obtain the tenon joint surfaces.

Attention! Whatever the shape of the tenons, the initial operation is to trim the workpiece.

For the most common models that use milling during processing, the machines are equipped with four spindles - three milling and one sawing. One or more workpieces can be loaded onto the carriage table, and they are aligned with their edges along the ruler and their ends along the stop bar.

The tenon is formed as a result of end milling. When the cutting tool comes out, chips may appear on the edges, so to prevent them, a support block is mounted on the ruler, and some machines also provide for the application of glue to the surface being processed.

After turning on the feed mechanism, the product is automatically fixed due to the side and top hydraulic clamps. The carriage with the workpiece begins to move at a certain speed along two guides relative to the cutting tools.

In this case, during the movement of the carriage, a spike of the desired configuration is formed on the structure, then the device, having reached the stop (limit switch), returns to its original position. Here the finished product is replaced with a blank, and the cycle repeats again.

If the machine is double-sided, the process of forming tenons occurs on both sides of the workpiece.

Delivery across Russia

Delivery to the regions is carried out through transport companies (hereinafter referred to as TC) at the expense of the client. The calculation of the cost of delivery, as well as the choice of shopping center is carried out by the buyer independently. Goods are shipped only to the TK terminal in Moscow several times a week. For delivery from Moscow to the destination city, the Buyer pays directly to the shipping company upon arrival of the goods at the terminal in the destination city.

We work with the following shopping centers:

Energy (2 times a week)
Business Lines (2 times a week)
SDEK (3 times a week)

Delivery is made ONLY after advance payment of the invoice, for both individuals and legal entities. Attention: When sending through a transport company, additional packaging and courier delivery of the order to the transport company's terminal may be required. Packaging costs from 80 rubles and courier delivery costs from 250 rubles. These additional costs and their final cost will be indicated when issuing an invoice for payment of the order after it has been agreed upon!

Delivery is also carried out by Russian Post (at the expense of the client). But some products, for example tenon saws, are delivered exclusively by transport companies. Because There are restrictions on weight and dimensions for postal items.

Attention! We reserve the right to change the delivery method if it does not increase the cost of delivery for the client, but significantly improves the delivery conditions (for example: cheaper, or faster, or closer to the residential address).

Pickup is also possible at the address indicated on the website, but by prior agreement.

Homemade tenoning machine

Today there are all opportunities for entrepreneurial activity, while many are engaged in the manufacture of furniture, wooden doors and windows, where connecting tenons are indispensable when assembling the product. And since tenon cutting machines are not cheap, at first a homemade unit is quite suitable for obtaining fixing elements.

It is easy to make on your own, which will save a lot of money when organizing production. Moreover, there are different options for the manufacture of such machines, where the basic element can be a stationary engine, an angle grinder, a jigsaw, and even an electric drill.

Let's consider making a do-it-yourself tenoning machine based on a grinder with a disk cutter positioned in a horizontal position.

As in a factory machine, here, in addition to the engine and cutting tool, there are two components:

The frame must be strong and stable, since it is the base part of the unit on which the device for fastening the workpiece and the grinder with the cutter are installed. This component of the tenoning machine can vary in design and be manufactured without drawings. For example, it can be made from metal corners, and a sheet of chipboard can be fixed on them.

The size of the tabletop must correspond to the intended workpiece. It also contains clamps and a control ruler.

The bed guides must be strictly perpendicular to the movement of the tabletop when milling connecting elements. The quality of the connection between the studs and lugs depends on this.

Machine assembly

The location of the shaft exit is determined on the table surface and a hole of a slightly larger diameter is made. The grinder is fixed with clamps, and you need to make sure that the heads of the bolts are flush with the plane of the table top.

Disc cutters are used as cutting tools. In this case, one cutter is used to select the eye and two cutting discs if it is necessary to process the tenon. Accordingly, the distance between the cutters is equal to the width of the groove.

Important! If two disc cutters are used, the fit on the grinder should be through an adapter with keyways.

With this assembly, the process of milling an eye or tenon occurs due to the movement of the workpiece. To do this, it is attached to the tabletop with clamps and then manually moves along the frame guides to the rotating cutter. In this case, the dimensions of the stud and eye are achieved due to the stops and the thickness of the washer between the discs.

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Assembling the turning fixture

Scheme of a simple lathe.

The assembly method will be like this:

The basis of the unit will be a 3-phase electric motor. Therefore, its power supply must be three-phase, otherwise the automatic fuse in the house will constantly blow out.
Engine speed is no more than 1500/min.

Note! Different types of drives are connected differently: “triangle” or “star”. The main difficulty in this case is the correct choice of capacitor. Its capacity must correspond to the power of the engine.

Place a faceplate on the motor shaft for large parts and a removable analogue for small ones. Secure the other side of the knot with a corner. There are special peaks on the faceplates; the workpieces are pressed onto them with a hammer.
Next, center the workpiece and secure it with counter washers. The homemade woodworking machine is ready.

Working on the machine

The photo shows the production part.

Turn on the machine and insert the first cutter (ordinary chisel). It will remove the initial layer (1-3 mm).
After rough processing, the workpiece will be 1 mm thicker than necessary. Remove the remaining layer with a finishing cutter, which will give the product its final shape.

The dimensions of the workpieces can be controlled with a micrometer or a template. Contours and cuts can be made with the sharp side of a chisel, and grinding can be done with a finishing cutter.

You can also smooth the parts with sandpaper. Polish with wood shavings, holding them in your fist and bringing them to the workpiece.

Milling table

To make it convenient to work with a hand router, it is often mounted permanently, while the workpieces are moved. In this case, the tool turns into a milling table.

Tool selection

Before choosing a manual wood router, think about what operations it will be needed for:

Homemade woodworking machines for complex workpieces require a powerful milling cutter with a high number of revolutions.
It is advisable to purchase a tool with manual adjustment and auto-stabilization of the spindle.
Convenient units have soft start and quick shutdown options.

Note! The instructions recommend selecting a device with a power of at least 2 kW and with speed control. This way you can confidently process any species and type of wood.

Manufacturing of the unit

Milling table diagram.

An important element of the machine is the frame:

It consists of a frame on supports, with a table top placed on top of it. The frame can be made from any durable material: chipboard, wood, metal, etc.
The main thing here is that the structure is stable and rigid. As for the size, you need to proceed from the volume of workpieces you will have to work with.
For ease of use, the bottom of the bed should be deepened. This will allow you to avoid clinging to the structure with your feet.

The tabletop can be made from a regular analogue for a kitchen table, coated with a special plastic. Thanks to it, the part will glide well, and the board will perfectly dampen vibrations.

Next you need to make a mounting plate for the router:

It must have a high level of strength with a small thickness. Textolite and metal meet this condition. What the drawings convincingly prove: how to make woodworking machines yourself.
The plate should have a rectangular shape. A hole is made in its middle, then the router is fixed in this place.
To attach the unit with the plate to the tabletop, 4 holes are drilled in the corners of the metal or textolite.

For ease of work, you can equip the table with an upper clamp. A ball bearing is useful for this. It will make it possible to tightly fix the parts.

Universal machine made from an electric drill

Circular from a drill.

For household use, you can assemble a universal unit that combines many home-made machines and tools for wood: a circular saw, a sharpener, a cutting device, a lathe and a grinder.

Assembly of the unit

The assembly will consist of 4 steps:

The basis of the device is a frame for fixing the drill. Its material is boards, textolite (thickness 1.8-2 cm) or 2 sheets of plywood glued together (1 cm each).
The drill is attached to the neck (it is cylindrical) of the body, the purpose of which is to install an additional handle. Clamping principle: the gap (in the frame) is tightened with a rigidly threaded nut and pin.
The number of installation points for an electric drill, their location on the frame and dimensions depend on the type and size of the tool, as well as its use. You can clamp emery, saw blade, cutters, flexible grinding wheel for wood, etc. into it.
The pin can be rigidly fixed using epoxy glue with additional protection against rotation (pin with a cross-section of 2 mm).

Application of the device

Drill-based lathe.

Such self-assembled woodworking machines have a wide range of applications. Drilling wood goes without saying, because... The basis of the device is a drill.

The second purpose is sawing sheet materials: plywood, chipboard, fiberboard. To do this, in addition to the drill with a circular saw with a cross-section of 15 cm fixed in the chuck, you need to secure a sliding sole at the bottom on the bed.

It can be made from duralumin 2 mm thick. For comfortable use of the resulting electric saw, you can make a handle at the front of the top of the frame.

Please note! The saw blade must be covered with a protective cover. It can be made from a bent steel strip (2-3 mm thick), securely fixed to the frame.

The third option is to replace the disc with a flat cutter. This will make it possible to cut not very deep grooves. Here you need to additionally make a rectangular hole on the sliding sole.

The fourth option is to use a circular saw as a cutting unit. This is convenient for the production of door frames, window frames, etc. It is best to do this on a support plate with a rotating bracket fixed to it.

The fifth way to use a drill is as a drive for a small woodworking machine. In this case, the sliding sole will act as a desktop. In this case, the frame is fixed with corners on a support plate made of OSB or chipboard.

This rigid design makes it possible to assemble both a small turning and a grinding unit.

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Do-it-yourself tenoning

Therefore, I decided to assemble a jig for making tenon joints using a hand router. The idea was to make a device for quickly and conveniently cutting grooves for Domino insert tenons, because... ready-made solutions are too expensive. It all started with searching for a suitable idea on the Internet. Next, adapt the idea to your needs and, finally, execute the drawings. The operating principle is simple (see next photo).

The position of the groove relative to the edge of the workpiece is adjusted using the blue stop. It will be used as a special cabinet. The width of the groove is determined accordingly by the width of the cutter, the length of the groove is determined by the position of the brown latch. The black part is a 40 mm wide copy sleeve that fits in the resulting groove.

Next is the search for material. It seemed to me a good idea to make a jig from a 6 mm duralumin sheet. Although, probably, it can be made from any sheet material - plywood, plexiglass, textolite. The search for a suitable duralumin sheet at the local poultry market and at local metal collection sites did not yield any results: “Suitable pieces sometimes slip through, but now they don’t and it’s not known when they will. Call back later". We managed to find the required material at metal warehouses. They even offered to cut it to size, but the problem is that they would have to take the entire sheet. And this is, firstly, expensive, and secondly, what should I do with the remaining 70% of the sheet. As a result, I found an individual entrepreneur selling D16T duralumin sheets at retail on the Internet. https://dural16.ru/. Maybe someone will find it useful. You can order a piece of duralumin sheet from them of the required size and thickness. But not everything is smooth here either. If you take not the whole sheet, but a part, then there is a serious markup. I bought from them a suitable duralumin sheet 800×500 with a thickness of 6 mm for 4130 rubles, i.e. 614.58 rubles per kilogram. Yes, quite a lot.

In parallel with the search for material, the search for a turner-milling machine began. I scoured a couple of all-Russian thematic forums in search of fellow countrymen. As a result, I found a couple of dozen accounts to which I sent personal messages. Of these, eight people responded, to whom I later sent drawings with a question about the cost of the work. The price range for working with my material was significant - from two to eight thousand rubles.

As I said above, such a tenon cutter can be made from any sheet material. For example, from plexiglass, PCB or plywood. In this case, you can get by with a simple hand milling cutter. I decided to make my tenon cutter from duralumin, so I had to turn to specialists. It was for them that precise drawings were made with dimensions that might seem redundant and complex to some (although upon closer examination it becomes clear that this is not the case). These dimensions are selected in accordance with the dimensions of the router's side and for a specific copy sleeve. Making it from duralumin is not the cheapest solution both in terms of the cost of the material and the cost of work, but it suits me. It’s interesting to watch how a product you imagined and drew in 3D materializes and becomes a real product.

As you can see in the next photo, the finished product is very simple. When assembling it I encountered an unexpected difficulty. The fact is that in the original design the plates are connected with aluminum rivets with a countersunk head. It turned out that finding such rivets on sale is not a trivial task. They are not only available in ordinary hardware stores, but even in highly specialized hardware stores. I had to connect the plates with regular blind rivets.

The most cunning element of the design is the retractable tongue, which adjusts the length of the groove for the tenon. The whole trick is just the need to adjust the dovetail. Otherwise, there are no difficulties in its manufacture. To make it shorter, not one, but two holes are made in the main plate into which a fixing bolt is inserted, depending on the required size of the groove. In this case, the position of the groove on the tongue itself is chosen in such a way that, in any position of the tongue, the sole of the router does not rest against the locking wing nut.

To attach the tenon cutter, I assembled a cabinet from 21 mm plywood, shown in the following photo. In the upper part of the cabinet there are two parallel grooves for fastening the plate with M10 bolts, in the front part there is a hole for fixing the workpieces on the tenoning machine using clamps.

To give the cabinet the necessary rigidity, I made an additional crossbar inside.

After assembly we get such a device. Before installation, I first matted the metal surfaces in contact with the router sole and with the workpieces using 120 and 240 sandpaper.

Under the plate I attached a strip of duralumin to the cabinet. This strip expands the possibilities of attaching workpieces to the tenon saw using clamps.

So far I have not had the opportunity to give my tenon cutter a real test, but I think it will cope with its task. I will make the inserted spikes, despite the fact that you can buy them ready-made (https://www.kalpa-vriksa.ru/catalog/vstavnye_shipy_domino_dlya_festool_df500/) myself. Still, the cost of one spike is almost 10 rubles - a little expensive.

Characteristics: Dimensions - 250x440x112 mm Weight - about 5 kilograms Max. cutter diameter - 37 mm Max. groove length - 154 mm Thickness of the base under the router - 12 mm

Using this tenon cutter I made a children's bunk bed

Using a tenon cutter, you can make grooves for insert tenons in the desired place on the workpiece

If it is not possible to secure the workpiece to the tenoning saw, then the movable part of the tenoning saw is removed and attached to the workpiece.

If there is a need to process the ends of long workpieces, the tenon cutter can be placed on its side.

The tenon cutter is quite convenient to use and the result is quite high quality.

In the comments they wrote to me about another tenon cutter made according to these drawings. The original message can be found below. I’ll just give a summary: . there is no need to contact different masters. I made a tenon cutter according to your drawings in one day from an aluminum sheet 4 mm thick. 4 mm is the best option for making it yourself. I used a hand router, a circular saw, a file and an electric drill. I just attached another aluminum plate to the plywood bed at the bottom. It’s better to fasten the milled part this way, pressing it against the top and bottom plates. Aluminum can be cut well with a circular saw and a hand router at low speeds. Milled with an 8 mm milling cutter for metal.

What is needed for a router

The tool is used to perform various operations: facing, cutting grooves and holes, incl. on curved surfaces.

For each case there is a special device.

Rip fence for cutting

Due to frequent use, this product is included with all hand-held milling cutters. It allows you to guide the tool along the base surface, which is most often played by:

edge of the table;
side face of the workpiece;
guide rail.

The emphasis consists of the following parts:

Metal rods. They are inserted into special holes on the router.
Set screw. Clamps the rods in the holes.
Fine adjustment screw. It is used to set the distance between the cutting edge of the tool and the base surface.
Support pads. This is the main part of the stop: when performing an operation, it slides along the base surface.

The rip fence allows you to guide the tool along the reference surface.

In some models, the distance between the support pads can be changed.

To make curved cuts, a block with a round or angular notch on one side is placed between the base surface and the stop. It is oriented so that the straight edge is pressed against the support pads. This method does not provide a firm grip on the tool, so use it with caution.

Guide rails

This type of equipment is used in situations where the tool needs to be moved in a straight line at an angle to the edge of the workpiece. The guide can be equipped with additional structural elements:

Markings and fasteners. They are used for milling several holes with equal spacing.
Adapter (shoe). Before performing the operation, the router is screwed to this part; it is embedded in the guide so that it can slide along it.
Clamps for fastening to a workbench or workpiece. In their absence, clamps are used.

Copy rings and templates

The copy ring is a sleeve that is screwed into the router base or screwed to it so that the cutting tool is inside. This device is used in conjunction with templates. The sleeve is guided along the edge of the pattern, as a result of which the cutter follows its outline.

Copy rings are bushings that are screwed into the base of the router.

The closer the diameters of the cutting tool and the ring are to each other, the more accurately the groove follows the shape of the template. But the sleeve should not touch the cutter. If their diameters are very different, the pattern is cut out to adjust for this difference.

Using a copy sleeve, it is convenient to make curved grooves and also round corners.

The template is attached to the workpiece with clamps or double-sided tape.

Compass

This device is designed for cutting a groove in a circle or ellipse. In its simplest form, it is a narrow plate with a through channel in the middle. A pin with a fixing screw is threaded into it.

At one end the plate is attached to the router. Next, fix the pin at the required distance and insert it into the hole that serves as the center of the future circle.

A design with 2 “legs”, reminiscent of a school compass, is more convenient to use.

If the radius of the circle along which the groove needs to be cut is less than half the width of the router, use another product. It is screwed to the base of the instrument with screws.

The compass is designed for cutting a groove in a circle.

For milling along an elliptical or oval path, a mechanism with the following components is used:

A fastening screw or suction cup for fixing to the workpiece.
Two intersecting guides with shoes.
"Legs."
Bracket for mounting the router.

Nozzles and tenoning devices

The router allows you to quickly create structural elements for the tongue-and-groove connection. Special devices are also used for this. Among them, the most practical are universal ones - capable of making a groove with a dovetail, straight, T-shaped, etc. profile. They have a copy ring and a template in which it moves.

For fast and high-quality slot milling

There are attachments that allow you to cut grooves with a router on narrow edges, for example, for door hinges or lock elements. The product consists of a plate (screwed to the tool) and 2 guide rods, between which the workpiece is placed. If it is necessary to cut a groove offset from the midline, a sleeve of the required diameter is put on the corresponding pin.

There are attachments for fast and high-quality milling of grooves.

In the absence of a nozzle, bars are attached on both sides of the workpiece so that the edges of all 3 elements lie in the same plane. This will turn the narrow surface into a wide one, allowing you to cut the groove using the rip fence.

Design features and principle of operation

Tenoning machines belong to the category of woodworking machines and are designed for the automatic production of connecting elements of joinery and furniture structures - tenons and lugs. Depending on the method of wood processing and the type of tenon being made, they are divided into two classes - for the production of frame tenons and for the production of box tenons.

In turn, depending on the technology for manufacturing parts, these woodworking machines are divided into single-sided and double-sided. With their help, the production of studs of all types is automated:

straight;
round;
oval;
"dovetail".

All mechanisms that a wood tenoning machine is equipped with are arranged in a certain order, corresponding to the sequence of technological operations. The first technological operation performed on wood is trimming. The operation is performed using a special saw mechanism. Next, if the production technology requires it, the lugs are cut into the wood using a special lug head.

After making the eye, two tenoning heads are put into operation, configured to produce a tenon of a certain shape and size. Each saw head is equipped with its own electric motor.

Almost all major furniture manufacturers install the latest equipment for processing wood of various species, automated CNC machines, in their woodworking shops. Replacing the cutting tool and adjusting the technological chain are carried out by the operator and take minimal time.

Some design features

Single-sided units are classified as positional. The workpiece being processed is mounted on the work table of these machines. During operation, the work table moves under the saw heads, which perform the specified manipulations. After the workpiece has completely passed under the cutting tool, the carriage returns the work table to its original position, the workpiece is turned over, and the previous cycle is repeated, but on the other side.

Double-sided units are classified as position-through units. In these machines, the workpieces are fed continuously by a chain conveyor with a mechanism that fixes the workpiece in the desired position; cutting is carried out simultaneously on both sides. Their design includes two columns, one of them is fixed, and the second is movable. Its movement is carried out along guides and is adjusted to a workpiece of a certain length.

Horizontal cutters are used as tenoning equipment, and conical end mills are used in the manufacture of dovetails.

How do wood tenoning machines work?

The production process is divided into a number of sequentially performed operations. First, the wooden blank is placed on the work table, where it is cut to the specified size. Tenoning devices or special saws necessary to perform specified operations are mounted on the working head, located on the frame.

At the same time, a layer of adhesive is automatically applied to the surface of the wood to prevent splitting and chipping. This is a necessary procedure that minimizes the occurrence of defects during processing and, as a result, the yield of defective products.

The next stage of processing is trimming. To perform this task, the wood tenoning machine is equipped with appropriate mechanisms. This is necessary to align the ends. Next, the workpiece is fed under the working heads, where the specified operations are performed using sawing tools.

After completing all technological operations, the output is a part of the required dimensions, with spikes or eyes made in accordance with the specified settings.

Large tenoning woodworking machines are needed for large-scale production. For the production of small batches or single products, small milling machines equipped with tenoning carriages may be quite suitable. This expands the capabilities of the milling machine, since, in addition to its main functions, it also receives the function of a tenon cutter, which is important when producing small batches.

Do-it-yourself tenoning device for a router

Using tenon saw , you can make tongue-and-groove joints. The tenoner comes to your address completely assembled.

Why you need a tenon cutter can be found here.

How to work with an FMT tenon saw:

What is included in the package when purchasing a tenon cutter:

When communicating with customers, changes were proposed:

— rotary stop for basing workpieces;

- corner for pressing small workpieces;

- side stops - “ears” for pressing small workpieces;

— a clamping bar has appeared that can be installed in different holes in the inclined plate;

The FMT tenoner with the parts installed after the upgrade looks like this:

Set of parts for modernization:

The changes also affected the inclined plate:

You can see more details here:

Structurally, the tenon cutter has not changed and performs the same functions. The upgrade kit can be ordered separately.

All parts of the tenon cutter are made of metal, 3mm thick.

For the convenience of working with a tenon cutter, you can use the following devices in terms of fixing workpieces:

— lever clamp — clamps

Example of installing a lever clamp on an FMT tenon saw:

At the moment, it is possible to apply a protective (anti-corrosion) coating to parts - galvanizing.

Coating thickness is 3-5 microns. The appearance of the coating can now be seen here

When purchasing a tenon cutter, you need to perform several simple operations for high-quality work, namely:

Set the rotary stop at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the horizontal table. Because During transportation, the settings may be lost. And loosen the indicator screws and install it opposite the corresponding protrusion.

The tenon cutter comes with a set of templates for making various types of tenons. The dependence of the template and cutter on the size of the groove and tenon can be considered below.

Template sizes depending on the cutter and tenon/groove size.

This section will help you quickly figure out which template needs to be applied for a specific connection:

The dimensions of the tenon/groove are indicated in Fig.1, Fig.2, depending on

They need to select the desired cutter and template (Fig. 3).

The following is a general table for all types of templates that are supplied with the tenon cutter:

For round tenons, special templates are used:

The templates differ from each other in size by 0.2 mm (the template with a triangle is larger) - this was done in order to eliminate errors when using cutters from different manufacturers.

The tenon cutting kit includes 5 templates without deviation and 5 templates with deviation +0.2mm for the production of round tenons f15, 20, 25, 30mm - for them a f12mm cutter is used, and for f35mm a f10mm cutter is used.

Using these templates you can make a spike.

- How to make a groove?

— It’s very simple - we take a Forstner drill, respectively f15, 20, 25, 30 or 35 mm and make a groove.

Here is a real example of making a tenon joint. Production is carried out only for demonstrative execution of the tenon and groove.

Making a spike:

We make a groove and try it on:

* Tenoner (tenon-cutting device) is a device designed to facilitate tenoning in woodworking.

Tenoners are assembled and ready to be sent to customers:

This is what the template set looks like:

More templates for making round tenons:

When making tenons, a situation may arise when the connection turns out to be loose or too tight. To do this, the tenon joint gap can be adjusted:

At this moment, the tenon cutter is equipped with a plate for attaching the router, which has holes for the following models of routers:

By clicking on this link you can see the models of milling cutters for which there are mounting dimensions for the soles.

It is also possible to manufacture plates to individual sizes - but in this case these dimensions must be provided.

A logical question arises: “How to make precise markings for making holes yourself?”

I answer: The delivery set includes a centing washer:

It is inserted into the central hole of the plate for attaching the router:

Next, install a cylindrical cutter f8mm or rod f8mm into the collet of the router, clamp and center the router relative to the plate, mark and make holes.

Accessories for a wood router: DIY production, instructions and assembly

Products made from wood are distinguished by their uniqueness and environmental friendliness, which is why they are so valued. But you won’t be able to make a wooden masterpiece with your own hands without a hand router. In addition, it will need accessories with the help of which the craft takes on a given shape.

You can even make them with your own hands, and no special strength or skills are required. Before working with a router, you must first familiarize yourself with each of these devices, as well as learn the principle of their operation . In this article we will look at the most necessary designs for a router.

Device - rip fence

This device, as a rule, is already sold along with the router. Therefore, there is no need to develop and create it independently.

For reliable support of the processed material, this element is used.

With it, the movement of the cutter becomes rectilinear relative to the base surface, which can be a table guide, slats or a straight edge of the part .

This device makes it possible to quickly mill various grooves and process edges while firmly holding the material.

Circle milling

Compasses are used for such purposes. With their help, the router can move around a circle. The simplest of them is a device consisting of a rod, one end of which is equipped with a screw with a pin, and the other is attached to the base of the tool. Of course, it is better to use a compass equipped with two rods.

In general, there are many proprietary and even homemade devices for a router for cutting circles, which differ from each other in ease of use and dimensions. Quite often, compasses have a mechanism that changes the radius of the circle . As a rule, it is a screw with a pin at the end that moves along the groove of the router.

But you don’t have to buy a milling compass to cut out circles. Instead, you can use a rip fence. To do this, the device is attached to a groove on the sole. A screw is screwed into it, which is recommended to be equipped with a sleeve so that its diameter matches the size of the hole. That's it, the compass is done. The radius can be adjusted using the stop.

Devices for replication and copying

To create a series of identical products use:

Angle lever;
Copy probes.

There is a scale on the angular lever, the division value of which is 1/10 mm . It allows you to center a stop ring under the cutter, which helps accurately reproduce the shape of the part on the workpiece during copying. It is often equipped with a chip guard and support plate for best edge finishing.

Using copy templates and rings

Copy rings are a round plate with a protruding edge that slides along the base surface along the template. This device provides an accurate path for the cutter to move. Basically, this element is installed on the base of the workbench. There are several methods for attaching it:

Installation of special antennae in the holes on the sole;
Screwing the ring into the threaded recess.

Types of tenoning machines and their applications

As already mentioned, all woodworking units are divided into one-way and two-way, pass-through and return. This division is based on wood processing technology. For specific purposes, there are many varieties and designs of certain devices. The greatest demand is for tenon cutters for the manufacture of window frames and door structures. Vertical and horizontal cutters and special saws are used as working bodies.

Simple tenon cutters cut straight tenons and lugs into wood pieces. Complex – “dovetail”. Box ones are processed on special large machines designed for the production of large batches of parts. Round and oval tenons and lugs are made on machines that have numerical control and operate in any given plane.

A wood tenoning machine is evaluated based on the following characteristics:

saw diameter and cutter dimensions;
maximum dimensions of processed parts;
type, maximum width and diameter of the tenon;
type, maximum width and depth of eye;
power;
number of spindles;
spindle speed;
feed speed;
dimensions and weight.

How to make a tenon and groove using a hand router with a dovetail cutter

In this article, we will introduce you to the process of cutting various joints with a hand router, and consider the process of making additional devices for increasing labor productivity, such as tenoning templates and a dovetail wood cutter.

How to make a tongue and groove with a hand router

To make this tenon joint, we will need the router itself and the work table. To facilitate the process, you can make an additional device such as a conductor.

The procedure is as follows:

We install two slatted stops on a plywood sheet, cut out holes to suit the size of the groove for the drawer and the leg. Rack stops must be secured across the width of the router. They fix it across the working plane. To fix the longitudinal displacement, two other stops are placed at the ends of the intended location for installing the joinery machine.
To move the workpiece along its length, we mount a pair of bars to the tabletop that correspond to the dimensions of the workpiece.
We mark the axis and dimensions of the grooves. We install the additional device so that the markings on the workpiece and the jig completely coincide.
It is necessary to set and secure the stop.
Secure the jig to the bars using self-tapping screws.
It is necessary to take a straight cutter and set the milling depth, taking into account the thickness of the manufactured jig. After this, you need to fix the workpiece with a clamp and process the groove.

Let's start cutting out the spines.

For small production volumes, it is best to do this on a circular machine.
First you need to measure the depth of the groove, which will correspond to the length of the tenon.
We measure the resulting value on our workpiece. The length of the tenon will be determined by the difference between the width of the workpiece and the length of the groove, the height of the workpiece and the width of the groove, divided in half. The resulting material residues should be removed to obtain a spike.
After this, you should set the size on the machine equal to the length of the groove, taking into account its width. The circular saw should be fixed at a level equal to ½ the difference between the width of the workpiece and the length of the groove from the tabletop line. Make a couple of cuts along the length of the tenon.
We fix the saw blade at a height equal to ½ of the difference in the heights of the workpiece and the width of the groove from the tabletop line. Two cuts are made from the end of the workpiece.
Let's start sawing. To do this, it is necessary to fix the circular saw to the length of the tenon, and the distance from the disk to the stop should correspond to a value equal to ½ of the difference in the width of the workpiece and the length of the groove. We make two cuts along the width of the product on both sides.
We adjust the distance from the cutting disc to the stop. It should be equal to a value equal to ½ of the difference between the heights of the workpiece and the width of the groove. We make two slits. We round off the edges of the resulting tenon with a carpenter's knife and sand it with sandpaper.

Tenon cutter for router

Tenoning templates come in a variety of configurations. They serve to facilitate the work of cutting joints such as tongue and groove, as well as to speed up the work. With their help, you can make frames, box joints, and cut out various joints for furniture.

The size of the groove, as well as the evenness of its edges, will depend on the shape of the template tooth. To make a tenon cutter with your own hands, you will need guides, with the help of which you will mill the tenons. They should be mounted on two opposite sides of the housing in a checkerboard pattern, located equidistantly.

If these conditions are met, they will fit together perfectly.

Dovetail wood cutter

They are most often used in conjunction with milling machines and machines for making grooves in products made of hard and soft wood. Manufactured from monolithic hard alloys.

Designed to work in conjunction with cylindrical cutters.

How to choose a groove with a router

When performing this work, you need to know that the technique will directly depend on the location and size of the groove. If it is open, then your tool is attached to the tabletop, and the workpiece is guided along the cutter. Accuracy will depend on the position of the plank and the height of the cutter.

To avoid mistakes during the sampling process, always make a test run on scrap wood. Sampling should be done in stages, several passes must be made. After each pass of the cutting part of the router, to prevent it from overheating, it is necessary to remove waste from the working surface of the tabletop.

This can be done using a template cut out of plywood, which should be followed by a cutter with an upper bearing.

We hope that the information obtained from reading this article will be useful to you and useful for use in the household.

Areas of application

In addition to being used in carpentry and furniture production, such a machine can be used for processing wooden and particle boards, for processing floor boards, for finishing doorways and window frames, and for making parquet. Units designed for splicing wooden parts are included in a separate category.

Popular models and manufacturers of wood tenoning machines

One of the most famous manufacturers of woodworking equipment is Japanese. For small productions, the company supplies a compact tenon cutter with program control “Makita 5500 S”. The unit has two engines operating on two pairs of saw blades. The parameters of the device make it possible to obtain a given cutting cleanliness and penetration speed. It can work with wood parts of almost any length.

The Chinese company LTT presents the MXB3515C hydropneumatic tenoning machine on the Russian market. This powerful unit processes the ends of the bars, cuts toothed tenons, and automatically applies glue for reliable splicing of knots. The model has a carriage with a hydropneumatic drive and is intended for work in enterprises producing high-quality joinery, laminated wood panels for the manufacture of furniture, and construction timber.