Clapboard finishing: how to join wooden panels?

Types and features of material

The origin of the name of the material has its own history. Previously, freight cars were finished with such groove boards . For other purposes, the material was practically not used, not to mention the cladding of living quarters.

However, over time, they learned to use it for finishing baths and saunas, which provided comfortable operating conditions for the room, since the surfaces did not heat up to such high temperatures as the air (how to line a bathhouse with clapboard?).

Lastly, the panels migrated to the interior of residential apartments, in particular for finishing the kitchen, hallway and corridor, but the name “lining” is used to this day.

Depending on the type of wood, the panels are:

• conifers, usually pine;
• fake;
• alder;
• from larch.

Different types of wood have different properties, so they may not be suitable for exterior decoration or use in rooms with high humidity, such as larch or cedar.

By standard size they are distinguished:

• narrow canvases with a thickness of 13 cm;
• wide stripes up to 24 cm;
• thin from 1.5-1.9 cm;
• increased thickness up to 2-2.5 cm with a shortened tongue.

Important To choose the right material, you should take into account not only the type of wood, but also its size. This way you can save a lot if you correctly calculate the dimensions of the room. You can find out more about how to calculate the amount of lining required for covering a room here.

Categories:

• block house with a rounded surface contour;
• American - with several grooves on the inside of the profile;
• regular with different widths;
• Eurolining with standardized dimensions.

Type of veneer covering:

• MDF;
• PVC;
• tree.

Lining made of wood or MDF belongs to the category of wooden or natural panels, and PVC belongs to plastic or artificial coverings.

The following classes of panels are distinguished::

• A;
• IN;
• Extra.

The differences between the material of each category are the presence of knots, their number and type.

1. Category A lining has a small percentage of these formations that do not fall out over time.
2. Group B includes materials of the lowest quality, most often for rough or facade finishing.
3. The highest quality panels in the Extra category , where not only are there no knots, but the surface of the material is perfectly smooth. Such products are intended for cladding inside saunas and baths.

Based on surface type, materials are divided into:

• processed;
• unprocessed.

Advice If the board already has some kind of protective coating, then it is very difficult to repaint it without damaging the existing appearance. If you need to implement your own design using various means and compositions, then it is better to purchase untreated panels.

We invite you to watch a video about the types of lining:

Montazh vagonki

Wooden lining length

Docking along the length of the lining is an opportunity to increase the size of the panel when finishing the outside of a house or the inside of a room, when necessary. Correct connection of elements ensures good quality of the sheathed surface. This article will tell you how to join clapboard slats correctly with your own hands.

Types and features of lining

Lining is an excellent material used for interior cladding (see Do-it-yourself cladding inside a house) and house facades. Structurally, the material has the form of wide and long slats, which are attached very tightly to one another, which allows you to obtain a beautiful and durable surface that does not require additional finishing.

A special feature is the presence of grooves on the sides of the panel with which the individual slats are connected to each other. In this case, the part is fastened very securely on one side with staples and screws, and no traces of fasteners and screws are visible on the front side.

Lining according to the material of manufacture is:

• Wooden. This is a natural material, environmentally friendly, and has good design properties. But its price is high.
• Plastic. Its use is justified in rooms with very high humidity.

The profile shape of the canvas differs significantly, which determines their appearance:

• Lining panel. The element has a simple shape and imitates a wooden beam. Wooden and plastic panels have this profile. Moreover, most of the latter are produced with a fairly simple and technologically advanced part profile.

Regular lining

• Eurolining. It differs from the standard one in the presence of longitudinal grooves on the reverse side of the slats, as can be seen in the photo. These recesses serve to ventilate the walls and drain excess fumes and moisture, which makes the material popular for finishing the house from the outside (see How clapboard cladding is done on the outside of the house).

Eurolining with extended tenon

• American. It is made of wood with an unusual profile, like eurolining, with grooves on the inside. Used for finishing walls outside.

Lining - American

• Block house. This is a semicircular lining with a profile convex outward. Imitates a structure made of round timber. The inner side of the part is flat, and on the sides there are grooves with tenons. Wood or plastic is used for manufacturing.

Block house lining

To fix the lining the following are used:

Finishing with the material can be done on almost all surfaces:

• Wooden. In this case, the panels are nailed.
• Frame. The sufficient rigidity of the lining makes it possible to use it as a top panel for structures without drywall. The panels can be fixed directly to profiles or bars with fastening increments of up to 50 centimeters.
• Plastered. The slats are fastened with self-tapping screws and dowels.

Tip: Liquid nails should only be used when covering with plastic lining in rare cases.

Plastic and wooden lining are perfectly processed with simple tools.

It can be:

• Hacksaw.
• Jigsaw.
• Electric drill.

Tip: When using the tool, you must choose jigsaw files and hacksaw blades with fine teeth. When drilling holes, do not press the drill too hard.

How to choose a lining

When purchasing material for finishing a room or cladding the outside of a house, you should pay special attention to such factors as:

• The purpose of the room and the requirements for the lining are different, for example:

1. for a sauna (see Lining for a sauna: decoration or necessity), use high-class euro lining, preferably hardwood, environmentally friendly;
2. For the exterior decoration of the facade of a building, lining made of any hard wood, but without damage, is suitable.

• Method of fastening the lamellas. There are several ways to arrange panels:

1. vertical, this method is quite widespread. In this case, the groove and ridge are reliably protected from water flowing in after rain and the ceiling height is visually increased;
2. horizontal. This method hides many uneven surfaces of the wall. This option is used mainly for exterior finishing; the lining is installed by installing the grooves downwards, which avoids water from flowing in;
3. diagonal. A convenient method for finishing non-solid surfaces, but this is the least economical option for laying panels;
4. herringbone The most labor-intensive process requiring accurate calculations. Refers to an economical option for installing lining; it makes it possible to use all the leftovers when adjusting the panels to the required dimensions;
5. combined, requires a complex frame structure to create different geometric patterns, and is characterized by increased material consumption. With this method, you can combine horizontal and vertical surface cladding.

Combined house cladding

Tip: When choosing the method of laying panels, you should take into account their profile. Semicircular and American linings are mounted only horizontally.

How to calculate the material for installation

When calculating, three panel sizes are taken into account, which are of particular importance:

• Thickness of slats. For external work, a thicker board from 20 to 25 is purchased, and for internal work it is allowed within 10-19 millimeters.
• Lamella width. Slats are available in widths of 8, 10, 11, 12 centimeters and are selected depending on the size of the room. The smaller they are, the narrower the strips are taken.
• Lining length. There are standard panel lengths: 2.6; 2.7; 3 and 6 meters. In this case, the length of the sheathed surface, the method of installation of the lamellas and the method of transportation are taken into account.

Lining calculations are performed in two ways:

• Approximate. The perimeter of the entire surface area is taken. The area of ​​the openings is subtracted from it. From 10 to 30% for waste is added to the resulting value. This is a simple but not very accurate method.
• Mathematical. The length of all surfaces is divided by the width of the plank. The number of lamellas is determined taking into account their length. This is a more accurate calculation. Add 10% for waste.

Tip: When purchasing material, you should select panels of the required length. This will reduce waste for cutting parts.

The percentage of waste depends on the type of lining and the method of its fastening.

How to prepare the frame for installation

Any type of lining is attached to a special frame constructed on the surface to be sheathed. In this case, the chosen method of installing the panels is taken into account; the frame elements are fixed perpendicular to the direction of the finishing lamellas. For its construction, pine bars measuring from 30 to 50 millimeters are used, without knots or damage.

Instructions for installing the frame:

• The load-bearing elements are dried in a horizontal position.
• Before covering, the wooden frame bars are treated with a water-repellent composition and bioprotective agents.
• Carefully, using a level, the planes of the frame are set for installation of the lining.
• The assembly of any surface begins with the installation of the outermost element.
• Using a plumb line, the vertical of the frame is controlled.
• If necessary, install insulation/sound insulation and securely attach it to the base of the wall, leaving a gap for ventilation of at least 10 millimeters.

The frame for mounting the lining can be made of galvanized metal profile. This option is an ideal solution for covering walls in damp rooms and outside.

In this case, straight hangers shaped like the letter “P” are attached to the base.

Tools and Fasteners

During the installation of wooden panels, various fastening methods are used:

• clamps , which are inserted into grooves and attached to the wall surface with studs;
• self-tapping screws , screwed directly into the canvas, fixing it to the sheathing made of wooden blocks (what is it for and how to make the sheathing?);
• nails designed specifically for fastening lining, with very small heads, 2.5-3 cm long and approximately 1 mm thick.

For cutting canvases the following is used:

• electric drill;
• jigsaw;
• regular hacksaw for wood.

The result is not always a perfectly even cut, so it needs to be carefully sanded using sandpaper.

Options for joining planks

Option #1

Connection of plastic and MDF panels:

• H-shaped PVC profile. Most often, joining along the length of plastic and MDF linings is done using H-shaped PVC profiles, as in the photo below. In this version, the planks are simply inserted into the profile on both sides. The downside is that such a profile is visible, and in the case of MDF it also differs in texture.

The H-shaped profile is considered universal, but it is visible

• Thin straight and corner strips. Manufacturers of MDF panels produce thin strips that are glued to the connection line; these strips can be straight or angular.
• T-shaped moldings . They are inserted into the gap between the panels.

T-shaped moldings for hiding the joints between MDF panels are very easy to use

Option No. 2

A decorative overlay at the joint is considered the simplest way to connect wooden cladding along the length. You simply fit 2 rows of planks and nail a piece of wood on top. The configuration and dimensions of the slats can be any, and most importantly, there is no need to adjust the slats too precisely; the slats will cover the entire defect.

To decorate the joint on the Blockhouse lining, a planed board with chamfers is usually used

Craftsmen use wooden T-shaped slats, they are also called mushrooms. There the rail is inserted into the gap, which must be precisely adjusted to the size of the fungus. Plus, this joint must be on the supporting lath of the sheathing.

The gap between the slats should correspond to the thickness of the fungus stem

Option #3

Installation in a running manner. This option is the most difficult to install with your own hands.

It is being built in several stages:

1. No one is going to hide the joints; on the contrary, they are highlighted , so they must be perfectly even. To do this, the ends are cleaned and ground at 90º before installation.
2. To ensure that there is no gap at all when joining, lay the planks on top of each other and use a miter saw to cut off the edges of both at once.
3. A grinder or electric planer is used to chamfer the outer part of the cut ; the bevel should be the same as the side bevels on the plank itself.
4. The planks are connected end-to-end and the cut no longer spoils the view, but is part of the interior.

Installation technology

The width of the canvases is very easy to join, since they have corresponding grooves and protrusions. As a result of fastening to the sheathing or wall, various devices are used :

• nails;
• self-tapping screws;
• clampers.

The latter allow you to obtain an even, continuous coating without visible traces of fixatives. This is achieved by the technology of fasteners, which are placed on the inside of each groove at several points on the canvas. They are attached to the wall surface or sheathing with studs, leaving the groove accessible for joining with the adjacent panel.

The advantage of this method is the excellent aesthetic qualities of the coating. Of course, if category B or even A lining is used, then marks from special nails are almost invisible , but in the case of Extra class material it is worth ensuring a clean surface without any damage or marks. This increases the strength and protective characteristics of the material, since high humidity causes areas with a damaged fiber structure to be most susceptible to rotting and darkening.

By lenght

To join boards along the length, different techniques can be used:

• a continuous stripe in one straight line;
• in a checkerboard pattern;
• offset by equal distances or arbitrarily.

In any case, the use of sandpaper is required. A special H-shaped profile is inserted between the individual blades, which fit into the grooves. This way the boundaries between the stitched strips are less noticeable, look neat and are protected from moisture.

On the ceiling

There are two main methods of joining canvases, which are most often used when finishing the ceiling with clapboard:

1. Using the seam spacing method, when the ends of individual strips are simply carefully cut perpendicularly and carefully sanded. Then such seams, with additional finishing with materials from the paint and varnish group, become completely invisible.
2. Docking along the line using special slats, decorative trim or an H-shaped profile.

Attention When installing with staggered seams, material savings are higher, since the use of a specific length of material is not required. This reduces the amount of scraps and unused canvas.

In the corners

In these parts of the room, a very careful choice of the method of laying the material is required. As a result of insufficiently tight joining, the thermal conductivity of the finish is reduced, which leads to rapid deterioration of the coating. The plank can be laid in this way :

• in the corner on adjacent walls, several bars are attached in pairs in height;
• the canvas is pre-sanded and prepared for installation;
• to select the desired angle for stitching panels, you need to select a canvas of suitable width;
• a thicker strip is attached along the height of the trim in the very corner;
• First, each element is joined to the plank, and then the entire structure is connected to the internal beam.

It is possible to dock at an angle of 120°, which requires additional equipment and special skills.

Read more about how external and internal corners are sheathed with clapboard, as well as joining methods, separately.

Methods for covering a room

Length joining is most often done when the ceiling is sheathed. In this case, there are several docking options:

1. The joining takes place along one line; when using this method, the joints are covered with decorative overlays or special slats.
2. The so-called seam spacing, when the end is sanded, thereby obtaining a neat and unprotruding seam, and each board that is placed is further trimmed. Docking with this method is neat and economical, since almost all the material is used.

During installation, you need to take into account that the joining of the lining in the corners must be of high quality so that air does not pass through the cracks. Laying the plank in a corner can also be done in two ways:

1. Fasten two small pieces of suitable size into the corner (as well as the sheathing strip). Before this, the log needs to be sanded and prepared for installation. The log should be small in size so that subsequent joining occurs at the correct angle. In the corner, which was made from logs, attach a plank, a little thicker than the lining. Join the elements with the plank. Next, the plank is joined to the lining. Then the element is fixed to the inner beam.

How to install panels if they are short?

When using short sheets to create a continuous coating, you will have to join them together. To do this, a method is used in a checkerboard pattern, with seams staggered or along one line of the ends of the strips. Each of these methods has its own differences, which require either additional equipment or good skills in working with wood.

• In the first case, the seams are located chaotically , which slightly distracts from the integrity of the canvas and creates the impression of an idea. Here the main difficulty lies in finishing the end of the lining of each contacting material. The smoother the cut, the less noticeable are the gaps and cracks at the joint.
• In the second case, a special additional device will be required to connect different lengths of canvas . If the strips are connected without an H-shaped profile, then they can even be positioned offset, but covered with thin wooden slats or planks. However, installation of continuous decoration of seams is a simpler and less labor-intensive process.

Unusual ways

If laying on flat surfaces usually does not raise any questions, then joining the lining at an angle of 120 degrees is considered quite difficult even for specialists in this matter; here you need to accurately measure the parameters, since the length of the strip may be longer or shorter than expected.

To install the lining at 120 degrees, you will need a special j-lining, the length of which differs from the standard one. This material is more convenient to work with corners and you can carefully lay the lining at 120 degrees.

Docking at 120 degrees

Docking at 120 degrees occurs in several difficult ways:

1. One plank is placed next to another so that there is no gap between them, so with the help of special objects you can measure any angle that you need.
2. The fastening is installed through the upper points of the fastening corner using special roofing felt nails.

Docking at an angle requires the presence of a sheathing on which decorative lining is attached. What to do if the joints at the corners are very noticeable and are located with a large gap? Specialized stores sell a plinth-type plank that covers the joints and does not allow wind, moisture and air to pass through. The lining can also be painted with special wax paints, which are well absorbed into the wood and form a moisture-proof layer, again protecting against bad weather conditions if you live in a private house.

Ceilings in bathhouses and saunas are sometimes finished with lining; this material is moisture-resistant and unpretentious, mold does not form on it, which means it is well suited for rooms with high humidity. The material is considered a universal finishing material, which is why it is so often used in construction.

You can choose material of different colors and lay it out in a checkerboard pattern so that the room is not only warm and dry, but also comfortable to be in. You can also choose lining from different materials, for example, oak, cherry; these types of trees themselves look beautiful and noble.

Useful tips

Despite the simplicity of processing and ease of installation, there are several useful tips for lining to ensure that the coating turns out beautiful, durable and with the necessary properties of the finishing material. Some useful tips:

1. To ensure that the size and shape of the canvas do not change as the material is used, it should be kept with a layer between strips of thin fiberboard in the room in which it is planned to cover the surfaces.
2. If a batch comes across a “crooked” fabric, then due to the fragility of the connecting side grooves and protrusions, it is very difficult to insert it into a flat product. It is better not to use such canvases, but to use them for sealing places where trimmings are required.
3. When using clamps, the protective oil coating containing metal particles must be removed from their surface. This will protect the wooden panels from accidental contamination (how to clean dirt on the lining?).
4. To prevent burrs or chips from appearing on the canvas when self-tapping screws are used for fastening, you need to drill a hole with a thin drill at the site of the upcoming fixation.
5. To disguise chips, joints and other damage between the canvases, you can use various paints and varnishes, wood putties or decorative elements, for example, thick twine or cord.

Wood is considered a very capricious material , which during operation is capable of changing its dimensions and shape. This must be taken into account when installing canvases on wall surfaces, especially in rooms with high humidity.

For the best result and invisibility of seams between strips of lining along the length, it is necessary to use an H-shaped profile or special thin wooden strips. However, installation with staggered seams will significantly save material, reducing its consumption due to the use of all scraps.

Tricks when working with lining - advice from an experienced carpenter

Covering walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard is one of the simplest and cheapest methods of interior decoration.
Lining is not a scarce commodity, and its use does not require professional skills or complex tools. However, as in any business, there are subtleties and peculiarities here. Dmitry Tokarev shares some of them. Wood is a capricious material. Even if you buy the lining in a package during the dry season and make sure of its ideal geometry, do not rush to rejoice. In a room with new temperature and humidity characteristics, this material quickly takes on the shape it needs, not you. The longitudinal planes are bent, and the worst trick is to tighten the paneling with a screw.

Trick 1 – Conditioning the lining

My first trick. Having printed the lining, I put it in piles, lay it with spacer boards and tape it together along the edges and in the middle. Sawn strips of fiberboard are convenient as spacers. In this form, the lining remains for 6-7 days in the room where it is planned to be used. In the future, the geometry of the aged material will not float away.

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Trick 2 – Crooked lining

And yet crooked lining comes across. During installation, it does not obey and fits into the joint with difficulty. For installation, it is sometimes necessary to apply impact forces, and this can lead to damage to the fragile side ends.

ADVICE It is easier to install curved lining in places where it will come in pieces - corners, window openings, short partitions.

If, after all, the curved lining is long and needs to be driven into the groove of the previous one, I use a simple tool. The weighty beater is assembled from a 60 * 60 mm block and a wooden railing trimmed from a staircase. As practice has shown, working with such a mallet is a pleasure. It is especially convenient when working on the ceiling. The impressive width of the impact surface does not allow the side end of the lining to be crushed. You can hit with all your heart - even the most obstinate lining will fit tightly into the groove.

Trick 3 - so that the lining does not warp

It’s easier and faster to fasten the lining with nails with a small head.

However, this is not always the best option. In rooms with variable humidity (baths, bathrooms, open verandas), lining fixed in this way begins to swell or dry out over time. And no nails will hold it.

A lining that is completely dry to the touch, unpacked and immediately installed, can shrink up to 12% in width. Unfortunately, to correct such defects, the work will have to be redone.

Outdoors, the situation can be even more complicated: the lining gets wet and swells so much that it comes off, squeezed out by its closest neighbors. The torn element will no longer fit back into place, so it will be necessary to trim (move, reattach) it or the remaining planks.

In saunas and steam rooms, clamps are often used when finishing: in rooms with high humidity, rusty halos and streaks stretching down quickly form around the heads of nails and screws. In addition, you can get burned on protruding metal parts.

TIP: Before using the clamps, they should be wiped with a dry cloth to remove a layer of protective lubricant and metal dust. Otherwise, you can stain the snow-white linden lining, which will not be easy to wipe off.

Trick 4 – to avoid chipping

Chips and burrs around the heads of screws can be avoided if you pre-drill a hole with a diameter of 3/4 of the diameter of the screw at the fastening point. In this case, it will tighten so that the head is pressed into the body of the wood without the formation of defects.

If there is a large amount of work, this operation can be simplified - just mark the place of fastening with an awl. We insert an awl and countersink the injection site in a circular motion.

Trick 5 – lining with screws...

In rooms with unstable humidity, it is advisable to fasten the lining with self-tapping screws: screw it on and it won’t go anywhere. And so that the heads of the screws do not spoil the appearance, you can use yellow screws 41-45 mm long. Curled exactly under the cut of the wood, they are almost invisible.

Trick b - pin in the clasp A small nail securing the clasp is nailed close to the edge, so there is a high risk of hitting the edge with a hammer and leaving a dent or chip. For comfortable fastening of the clamp, a small 50 mm pin or a center punch with a sharpened tip will help.

Trick 7 – spacers for fastening clamps

In places where a perfectly flat surface or corner joint is required, I use thin spacers for the clamps. It is convenient to make them from pieces of fiberboard left after drying the lining. It has a layered structure, and with the help of a mounting knife it is easy to cut off excess layers, achieving the desired thickness.

The use of clamps is appropriate for lining made of linden, aspen and other noble wood. But pine lining, which is prone to drying out, will easily disengage with the clamp. If a gap is too large, the soft blade of the clamp will not be able to keep the lining from falling out. In this case, a simple nail is preferable.

If the walls do not have a plane, such as the walls of a log house, then it may be impossible to nail a regular plinth tightly, which is why gaps remain. In addition, at corner joints the skirting boards may not meet due to deviation from the right angle in all three of its planes - two walls and the ceiling.

Door trims can also be made from clapboard. This way you can save on expensive figured elements made of linden, which, moreover, are not on sale everywhere. Using a plane, carefully remove the side grooves of the lining at an angle - and you get an excellent platband!

TIP: Instead of a plinth, it is better to use a flat platband. It will always lie tightly against the wall - at any angle of the log’s circumference. There are no such platbands on sale, but they are easy to make from clapboard.

Trick 8 – masking the chip

It happens that in the most visible place when connecting a groove with a tenon, the latter breaks off. The cosmetic defect can be removed by inserting a sliver of appropriate thickness into the existing gap between them.

Was there not enough lining or a whole number of it did not fit on the wall? You need to cut and fit the desired piece. Or maybe that's okay? If we sewed in the right direction, then the remainder of the unsewn area will be covered by another element - a platband, for example.

TIP: We always sew the lining from the corners to the center, where there are door or window openings.

Trick 9 – masking leaks

Leaks at the junctions of the planes of walls and ceilings can be easily covered with decorative elements.

TIP: If you need to insert the last plank by adjusting its width, do it in the least visible place - where the boards have a minimum length.

Trick 10: Disguising a chip from a self-tapping screw

It often happens that a self-tapping screw screwed into the edge of the lining splits the wood. If the crack is small, then by loosening the screw back a little, you can reduce the defect to the point of being invisible. If this does not help, I drive a small nail into the end of the split paneling at an angle towards the crack. The two halves are pulled together, making the crack barely noticeable.

And here the screws are screwed into the very edge of the lining - and not a single split board. Don't be lazy to drill holes for the screws. By the way, screws screwed in at the very edges of the joints of two planes will close the baseboard.

Trick 12: Masking the joint behind the pipe

If a thin pipe comes across as an obstacle, then you can make sure that the joint of two adjacent boards hits the pipe. It is easier to cut a semicircle to go around the pipe from the edge of each board.

And here is an option to bypass curved obstacles. Thick twine as a decoration successfully covers the joint with the log and creates the complete illusion of a log stitched through with clapboard.

I hope my tricks will help the reader decorate their home carefully and at minimal cost.

Sequence of finishing work

The first step is choosing a wall decoration option. Fastening the lining can be done in two ways:

• Along the walls;
• Along the sheathing.

The first option is preferable in a wooden house, since wood tends to expand or shrink in size and “breathe”. If the base material is the same as the coating, their joint oscillatory motion will not cause multidirectional stresses leading to deformations and the appearance of defects on the surface.

In brick and concrete houses, before attaching the lining, a sheathing is installed, which can also serve as a frame for laying thermal insulation. It is convenient to place corrugated hoses for electrical wiring and heating pipes in the space between the covering and the wall.

The second is the correct measurement of the room and calculation of materials. This will help you avoid unnecessary expenses or waste time on additional trips to purchase missing components. The amount of lining is determined based on the area of ​​the walls, excluding openings. The length of the ceiling and floor plinth is equal to the perimeter of the room. To decorate the corners you will need shaped strips. Materials are purchased with a margin of 10-15% for defects or other defects.

Wood is a living structure, sensitive to fluctuations in humidity and temperature.

Before starting work, it is unpacked, allowed to “get used” to the new conditions, and treated with antiseptics and fire retardants, if there is no factory preparation.

Before installing the sheathing or directly attaching the lining to the wall, prepare the surface - clean, level, seal the cracks, and coat with antiseptic compounds. This will protect the structure from the appearance of mold and fungi.

The third step is installing the sheathing. Most often it is made from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 20x30, 40x50 or larger. The thickness of the element depends on whether insulation will be laid under the lining. A ventilation gap is left between the thermal insulation layer and the coating, which prevents condensation from accumulating.

The frame pitch is 40-60 cm, the direction is perpendicular to the finishing boards. The space between the bars should be filled tightly with insulating roll or slab material. For residential premises this is usually mineral wool; outside, expanded polystyrene foam or other polymers are more often used. They are not afraid of moisture. Before attaching the lining, perform a vapor barrier and waterproofing. A film or membrane is used that allows the liquid to evaporate, but does not allow it to pass in the opposite direction.

The geometry is controlled using a bubble or laser level. Dowels or construction nails are used as fasteners for the sheathing.

What do you use to cover it with?

This kind of cladding is now made from 3 materials:

1. Plastic.
2. MDF.
3. Tree.

Plastic and MDF cladding are often of the same type, but with wood it is a little more complicated; in addition to wood species, the lining is also divided into classes and types.

Plastic lining

The width of the planks varies from 100 to 380 mm, and the length from 2000 to 6000 mm. The thickness varies around 10 mm.

PVC lining is most often used; it has a wide range of models and a reasonable price, but there is one serious drawback: polyvinyl chloride fades in the sun. Acrylic panels are more expensive, but they do not fade, plus the colors are brighter and the material itself is stronger.

MDF planks

MDF planks are used only for interior decoration, but unlike plastic, they cannot be installed in wet rooms.

Modern MDF lining differs from laminate flooring in its density, but otherwise these materials are similar.

Wooden lining

This cladding is regulated by two standards:

• Domestic GOST 8242-88.
• European DIN 68-126/86.

As for wood species, linden, spruce and pine are considered popular. Elite finishes include oak, larch and Karelian birch.

The name eurolining does not guarantee that the material was made abroad. It’s just that the planks are made according to the DIN standard, and they could have been made at the nearest sawmill, which has the appropriate equipment.

• Dimensions according to domestic GOST . In stores, the length of wooden lining ranges from 1500 - 3000 mm, the minimum width is 76 mm, the maximum is 200 mm. The thickness depends on the configuration, so thin strips such as Standard, Shtil, etc. have a thickness of 12 - 16 mm, and semicircular lining (Blockhouse) reaches 40 mm.
• Dimensions according to DIN standard. The most common length of eurolining is 2.7 m, width 80 - 120 mm, and thickness 12.5 - 19 mm.

In theory, both of the above standards allow for the production of planks up to 6 m long, but due to difficulties with transportation, such material is usually made to order.

The configuration of the planks is also very different, both in price and in appearance:

• Standard, Shtil and Softline are considered the most popular and affordable.
• Eurolining is the same Standard, only with different sizes.
• Semicircular lining or Blockhouse is more expensive, now this model is very popular.
• Landhouse and American models are considered specific in the domestic market. Their price is average, but their popularity is lower than that of traditional lining or Blockhouse.

Contours of different types of lining in section and appearance in the photo

Fasteners for lining

Profile strips can be placed vertically, horizontally or obliquely. In dry rooms, the direction of the board is chosen arbitrarily, consistent only with the design idea or one’s preferences.

In places where there is high humidity or water may flow into the spaces between the planks, the boards are installed either vertically or horizontally so that the tenon points upward.

Then liquid will not penetrate through the joint.

The lining is fastened using fasteners; the following methods are distinguished:

• Nails;
• Self-tapping screws;
• Kleimers;
• With staples.

Nails

The fixation must be reliable, and the material must be firmly held on the frame. It is desirable that the fasteners are invisible and do not corrode in a humid environment. These requirements are met by finishing nails, the head of which is cylindrical in shape, and its diameter is slightly larger than the shaft. The surface of the hardware is coated with zinc, brass, copper or bronze; they are not afraid of exposure to water.

The length of the dowels is 20-50 mm, the cross-section is 1.2-1.8 mm. The diameter of the cap is 1.6-3.4 mm. The nail penetrates the wood easily without splitting it. With a hammer, it is sunk into the thickness of the material.

Specialized equipment for driving nails - a pneumatic gun. It allows you to quickly, efficiently, and without expending much physical effort, attach the lining to a vertical surface and ceiling.

The length of the nail should exceed the thickness of the profile board by 2.5-3 times. Most often, hardware from 50 to 60 mm is used. They are driven in with a hammer using a hammer with a cone-shaped end, or with homemade devices made from a bolt or punch. You can nail the strip through the middle of the element, obliquely from the longitudinal tongue or from the side of the groove into the protruding lower shelf.

Kleimers

Clamps are staples made of spring steel or galvanized iron with a tongue for the board and 3-4 holes for nails, screws or staples. The element is inserted into the foot and secured to the frame with hardware. From the front side of the finishing surface, the connection is completely invisible.

The clamps are selected taking into account the thickness of the lining; the thicker it is, the more powerful the fastener should be. The amount of foot lift varies from 2 to 5 mm in increments of 0.5 mm. The number of the hardware is chosen in accordance with the size of the tenon of the wooden profile, otherwise the fastening does not hold the part tightly or it will have to be pressed on with hammer blows.

Clips are not designed to bear loads, so hangers, ceiling lamps, shelves, and cabinets cannot be fixed to the coating. Before attaching the lining, determine where to hang the equipment. If it is heavy enough, additional embedded parts are mounted on the wall.

Self-tapping screws

Self-tapping screws are rods made of hardened steel with threads and a head for a screwing tool. To fasten the lining, use yellow and white hardware with a protective anti-corrosion coating. The thread pitch is increased compared to metal fasteners, since wood has a layered, loose structure.

The most commonly used self-tapping screws are 20-45 mm long and 2.2-3.5 mm in diameter. They are screwed in with a screwdriver, a screwdriver, and holes are pre-drilled in solid wood. You can fasten the lining using the through method, then use products with a hidden head. After installation, the recesses are filled with dowels, leveled and puttied.

The clamps are attached to the sheathing with thin small screws, nails or staples. Recommended dowel sizes are 10-12 mm.

Compared to nails, self-tapping screws have higher fastening strength, are less susceptible to pulling out, and can be removed if necessary. They are more convenient when using clamps, since fasteners can be damaged by hammer blows.

Experienced craftsmen advise how to properly fasten the lining: use nails and screws in inconspicuous places, and place a clamp in plain sight.

Staples

The lining is fastened with staples using a construction mechanical, pneumatic or electric stapler. The fasteners are embedded into the wood with virtually no physical effort, so a large amount of work can be completed in a short time. The advantage of the method is the absence of irreversible damage to the material. The most popular sizes are 4-14 mm - the length of the legs and 11.4 mm - the width of the bracket.

Hardware is produced both untreated for corrosion and galvanized or copper-plated for use in conditions with high humidity. In pneumatic and electric models of staplers, the impact force is adjusted, which is important when working with such soft material as wood.

The staples are driven into the groove at an angle. The clamps can be attached in the same way; the dimensions of the hardware must correspond to the distance between the holes in the plate.

Finishing the ceiling with clapboard - all the main “tricks”

Already finished ceiling

Wood is a natural material that people have long used to build and decorate their homes. Wooden flooring is not only beautiful, but also environmentally friendly. Let's look at how you can decorate the ceiling in a room. If you love natural materials, clapboard ceiling decoration is your option. Unlike its plastic and hardboard counterparts, lining is not afraid of either heat or frost.

Classes and types - choosing the right material

Today we will look at the option of finishing the ceiling with clapboard, how to properly lay it and fasten it.

Our reference is lining, this is a cut board with a thickness of no more than 20 - 22 mm. It is used for interior and exterior decoration of houses and premises.

Many may think that if the lining is just a board, then purchasing and nailing it to the ceiling will not be difficult. He is very mistaken. If you decide to decorate your home with a certain material, you should know as much as possible about this material. You must choose it correctly and use it correctly.

Right choice

The very first step is choosing the lining. It is important to know that at the very beginning this finishing material is not processed in any way and can be coated with any color. If you want to leave a natural, natural color, you can cover the lining with stain, which will only emphasize the structure of the wood, or you can treat it with paint or varnish. It is important that if the wood is not treated, it will become deformed as it dries. When choosing a lining, pay attention to the reverse side, there should be two gutters there. These gutters are necessary for ventilation; they prevent the material from leaking in the future.

Classes - what is important to know

The lining is divided into classes. Exists:

• Class A
• Class B
• Class Extra

These classes differ in the presence, quantity and quality of knots.

Class B

The largest number of knots is in class B. It is also worth knowing that in the material of this class there are “non-living” knots that may fall out during operation, which will lead to the formation of holes in the surface. Options for finishing ceilings with clapboard of this class are simply undesirable.

Class A

In class A material, there are much fewer knots and all of them are “live”. These knots do not fall out during operation, and therefore no holes are formed in the coating. This class can be used for ceilings. If you want to close your ceiling without a hitch, then you need the Extra class - eurolining.

Class Extra

Extra class has no knots and is intended for finishing baths and saunas. The absence of holes after knots will protect the room from heat loss. If you have a question - how to decorate the ceiling with eurolining? We can answer as follows: there is no fundamental difference in installation, so we will not focus our attention on this class, but will consider the general rules and principles.

Steam room - a special choice

If you are planning to finish a steam room, we advise you to use aspen lining:

• This lining is not afraid of high temperatures and humidity.
• It is clear that depending on the class, the price of the lining differs significantly.
• Therefore, when choosing this material for finishing, first of all pay attention to the class and only lastly to the price.
• Otherwise, chasing a low price can literally cost you dearly.
• Rework will be required, entailing additional costs for materials and labor.

Processed, unprocessed – which to prefer?

Treated and untreated lining is available for sale.

Our advice is to buy unprocessed.

Untreated lining can be easily repainted in the desired color, or left in your own natural color.

Unpainted can be painted

As a rule, there is a certain amount of this material on sale with processing, during the production of which the processing technology is grossly violated.

Painted board

When storing material, many sellers do not store it correctly. This is not only a matter of temperature. Usual negligence, they did not put it flat or on an uneven surface and the whole batch ends up crooked:

• If untreated lining is allowed to sit indoors, it will straighten out in most cases.
• Painted as crooked as it was, it remains so.
• This will create additional problems during installation later.

Installation - basic rules and subtleties

You have chosen the lining. Now all that remains is to deliver it to its destination and install it. You can certainly handle the delivery yourself, but before installation you need to know some rules.

Acclimatization is very important

After the material has been delivered, do not rush to begin installation immediately. Finishing ceilings with clapboard involves a certain acclimatization of the material to the room.

Our advice is that after delivery, let the material rest in the room where installation is planned for at least 48 hours.

This operation is necessary so that the boards do not subsequently move after installation.

Lathing - only correct execution

Installation of the lining begins in the installation of lathing from slats, to which the lining itself will subsequently be attached:

• The frame slats are cut into pieces of the required length so that they are located from wall to wall perpendicular to the direction of the lining itself.
• The frame slats are screwed to the load-bearing ceiling beams or to the floor slabs. It all depends on the material of the ceiling of the room itself. The distance between the slats is chosen depending on the size of the purchased lining.

Let's install the sheathing. Regardless of whether the installation is carried out in a brick, concrete or wooden house, the first step is to determine the lowest point of the ceiling. On the pages of our resources describing options for finishing ceilings with panels or plasterboard, it is described in detail how to do this, so we will not get distracted. So:

• The lowest point is determined, based on it, the sheathing is installed.
• When installing each rail, carefully monitor its horizontal position using a building level.
• If your ceiling leaves much to be desired, place pieces of slats or boards under the sheathing. Use self-tapping screws of the appropriate length for fastening. In this case, the self-tapping screw must pass through both the rail and the lining.

The entire final result of the work will depend on how smoothly you fasten the sheathing. But what to do if the height differences on the ceiling are very large?

Lathing on hangers

In this case, hangers should be used. The hangers are the usual ones that are used when installing a profile for plasterboard. Convenient, reliable, high quality.

Vapor barrier is another important component

Now you need to install a vapor barrier.

How to paint with a spray gun correctly

Installation of vapor barrier

So:

• If you have wooden floor beams, shoot them with a construction stapler. If the surface is concrete, glue it using Hot Glue.
• Vapor barrier joints must be overlapped. The amount of overlap is 100 mm.
• The joints along the length must be taped with double-sided construction tape.

Our advice is to carefully read the instructions before installing the vapor barrier to ensure that you install it the correct way. It is very important.

Joints - the choice is yours

You can begin installing the lining itself. If the installation is carried out in a wooden house and the house is new, not settled, leave a gap of 15 - 20 mm between the lining and the walls. This gap is necessary in order to compensate for the shrinkage of the house, which occurs within 2 to 3 years after construction. There are two ways to join the lining along the length:

• Butt to butt
• Checkerboard

Important - all wiring must be completed before installation begins.

Fastening methods - clamp

Kleimer

It is necessary to say a few words about fastening. To fasten the lining, you can use self-tapping screws, nails or special fasteners - clamps.

Installed claymer

• The kleimer slides into the groove of the lining and is carefully tapped until it fully adheres to the board.

Kneading the kleimer

• The clamp can be attached to the sheathing using nails or self-tapping screws.

If you will be using nails, use a nail hammer. This will protect the edge of the board from being accidentally hit with a hammer. Simply place the hammer on the head of a half-hammered nail and hit the nail with a hammer to finish the nail.

Nails - main disadvantages

The same must be done if fastening is carried out using nails without using a clamp.

Fastening with nails

Using nails is the so-called traditional method. The nail is inserted into the groove at an angle of approximately 45 degrees and driven with a hammer to the middle. Next, a hammer is inserted and the nail is driven in completely.

Deformation from the puncher

What is the disadvantage of this method? As can be seen from the figure, even the use of a punch cannot prevent deformation of the groove edge. Many may disagree and say that this deformation will not be visible. But practice shows that during operation the hammer jumps off the hammer and crushes the already visible part of the board.

Device to protect against accidental hammer blows

Some craftsmen even make special metal devices to protect the board from accidental damage. The device is installed on the board and acts as a shield; after the nail is hammered in, it is removed and moved to a new location. Another disadvantage of this method is lubrication. As you know, nails are sold in lubricant. When carrying out work, hands and gloves get dirty very quickly. If you touch a clean, untreated board with such a hand, it is very easy to ruin its appearance. You will have to sand the stained areas afterwards using sandpaper.

Screws - main problems and solutions

Therefore, if you do not use clamps, we suggest you fasten with screws.

Cracking when fastening without drilling

Some may say that in order to secure the lining with screws or self-tapping screws, it must be pre-drilled. Otherwise, cracking of the board cannot be avoided.

Drilling before tightening screws

This is not entirely true. Today we will tell you about the method of fastening the lining with screws.

Screws - 0.5mm makes a difference

Typically, screws 25 mm long and 3 mm in diameter are used for fastening. Moreover, the head of such screws has a diameter of 6 mm.

Drilling a screw into a drilled hole

To fasten with such a screw, you must actually pre-drill a hole in the board, otherwise cracking cannot be avoided. We suggest that you use screws of a different size. 25 mm long and 2.5 mm in diameter. The head of this screw has a diameter of 5 mm. Some may not believe it - what is 0.5 mm? We want to assure you that this small size makes a very big difference. If you compare these two screws when purchasing, then even to the eye these 0.5 mm will stand out.

Main advantages of screws

So:

• With these screws you can fasten them even without drilling, there will be no cracking. The commercially available lining and these screws fit together very well.
• Another important advantage of screws over nails is the possibility of dismantling.
• If repairs are necessary, the screws can be easily unscrewed and the covering can be dismantled. Try to remove the nails without damaging the coating. Unreal.

The right screw material is no problem

If you think that the head of the screw will prevent the tongue of the next board from entering the groove, you are mistaken. A properly made lining has enough space to accommodate the screw head. If the lining is made correctly and according to technology, when connecting, there should be a gap inside.

Gap in properly manufactured material

Our advice is when purchasing, attach two boards to each other as shown in the photo, if there is a gap inside, it is made correctly, if not, it is made incorrectly.

This gap is simply necessary for linear expansion. Otherwise, deformation of the entire coating will occur. As you can see, there is enough space for the screw head.

Our information is that these screws are practically not available on the construction markets. They can only be purchased in large specialized stores.

Fastening – quality and reliability

The instructions for this mount are as follows:

• The ph bit No. 1 is inserted into the screwdriver.
• A screw is taken and installed at an angle of 45 degrees into the groove.
• The screw is tightened with a screwdriver.

It is reliable, durable, and even if dismantling is required, it will not be a big hassle. The ridge of the next one is inserted into the groove of an already installed board and secured in exactly the same way as in the first case. The boards may fit tightly into the groove of each other. If you start to hammer them, you can damage the edge. To do this, you need to use a piece of lath left over from the sheathing. Place it against the edge of the new board and hit it with a hammer until the groove and tongue are completely connected. This way the entire installation is completed.

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Vertical lining

With this layout of the boards, the sheathing is installed horizontally. The bars are pre-treated with impregnations against rotting and pests. The locations of the guides are marked on the wall in increments of 40-60 cm. The dowel or self-tapping screw is deepened into the wall by at least 50 mm. If necessary, the hole is drilled. The upper and lower elements should be as close as possible to the ceiling or floor so that the lining can be securely fixed at the edges. Corners and openings are additionally reinforced with jumpers.

Before attaching the lining, determine the most visible angle. The first profile is nailed down. Alternately, insert the board with a tenon into the groove of the previous element and fix it with fasteners to the sheathing. Verticality is controlled by the building level.

The hardware is driven into the bottom flange of the groove at an angle, the caps are recessed so that the ridge of the next lining fits freely into the recess. The last board is cut to the size of the remaining part and nailed.

Joints, abutments and corners are covered with slats, plinths, and layouts.

The most important thing: we attach the starting board of the lining

Regardless of the installation method chosen, it is very important to install the first board exactly. All others will be measured by it. Therefore, the first plank must have ideal geometry. And one more thing: even if you glue clapboard to the wall, place the first board on nails/screws.

For vertical installation, use a plumb line; for horizontal installation, you will need an accurate building level.

When installing cars horizontally, control the position using a building level

You can put marks on the wall using a laser level.

It is important to position the first plank on the wall correctly

Do not secure the first plank completely until you have it exactly aligned. You can drive a nail at the top (for vertical installation), place it at the bottom and fix it there. Then - in the middle, making sure that the edge of the board goes exactly along the mark/beam/cord. We divide each half in half and put fasteners there. We repeat until the nails/screws stand every 40-50 cm or in each crossbar of the sheathing. Always check that the bar is positioned correctly. With horizontal installation everything is the same, only the direction changes.

Horizontal lining

The sheathing is mounted vertically from the corners, observing a step of 40-60 cm. To fix the insulation, additionally nail horizontal jumpers every 1.2 m or arrange an additional frame so that the slabs do not slide down. Before attaching the lining, a vapor barrier, heat insulation and waterproofing are laid.

Installation of lamellas begins from the top element, since the last bottom strip is usually trimmed. At the ceiling level, a whole lining looks visually better, and a non-standard width board near the floor will be covered with a plinth.

When fastening the lining horizontally, the tenon is directed upward. Gently tapping a piece of wooden profile with a mallet with a rubber tip or a hammer, install each subsequent board in place and secure it with fasteners from below. The first and last element, as well as short pieces less than 10 cm long, are nailed or secured with self-tapping screws.

If the wall is sheathed from the bottom up, the board is secured to the sheathing from the bottom side, and a self-tapping screw is screwed into the tenon along the top, flush with the surface.

The next panel is placed on the ridge and secured with hardware into a tenon. The last lining is fixed in the same way as the first.

Headlining

The ceiling lathing is mounted on hangers or brackets. The horizontal level is set with a laser level, focusing on the lowest point of overlap. A fishing line is stretched along the walls, and frame bars are placed along it in increments of 25-35 cm for eurolining, 40-60 for other types. When finishing an entire room with clapboards, first the walls are sheathed, then the ceiling.

Before fixing the lining, all communications are laid and embedded parts for massive lamps are installed. If the ceiling is insulated, use a stapler to attach a vapor barrier film to the sheathing or wooden wall from the side of the ceiling. Thermal insulation is inserted between the frame bars and covered with a membrane. The rough surface should be directed towards the insulation.

They begin to install the lining on the side opposite to the entrance so that the last cut board does not catch the eye. If the length of the lamellas is insufficient, use a layout with joints along one line or with staggered seams. The border is covered with a decorative strip or the ends are carefully sanded. Then the docking point is neat and unnoticeable.

Choice: wood or metal?

Professional craftsmen consider timber to be the most popular building material for sheathing under lining. Ease of use during installation work, small “weight category” - and creating a frame with your own hands will be easier and faster. This material also has sufficient functional durability. So we choose a wooden beam.

Timber for lining

We will use standard size bars - 50 by 25, 60 by 27 millimeters. This building material is almost ideal both externally and internally. But when purchasing, make sure that there are no defects or chips on it. It is also important to know the moisture level of the wood. Recommended – 16 percent, no more.

Required: processing solutions

Do not neglect antiseptics and insecticides. This step extends the durability of the sheathing. The minimum level of treatment is a solution against fungus, rot, and mold. And insect control products should be used in houses standing on the ground - dachas, utility rooms. By the way, the cost of the compositions is not too high, and the right thing to do would be to play it safe and treat both the wooden frame and the wall with the ceiling in any room where the sheathing under the lining is being installed. The rules for using solutions are usually written on the packaging - read before you start spraying.

This is what a timber frame looks like

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Covering walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard is one of the simplest and cheapest methods of interior decoration. Lining is not a scarce commodity, and its use does not require professional skills or complex tools. However, as in any business, there are subtleties and peculiarities here. Dmitry Tokarev shares some of them.

Wood is a capricious material. Even if you buy the lining in a package during the dry season and make sure of its ideal geometry, do not rush to rejoice. In a room with new temperature and humidity characteristics, this material quickly takes on the shape it needs, not you. The longitudinal planes are bent, and the worst trick is to tighten the paneling with a screw.

Trick 1 – Conditioning the lining

My first trick. Having printed the lining, I put it in piles, lay it with spacer boards and tape it together along the edges and in the middle. Sawn strips of fiberboard are convenient as spacers. In this form, the lining remains for 6-7 days in the room where it is planned to be used. In the future, the geometry of the aged material will not float away.

Lathing for lining: step-by-step instructions

Preparation of the bar

The material for work should be prepared in advance. The timber should be kept for several days in the room where the finishing will be done. This will allow the building materials to acclimatize, and their temperature and humidity will become similar to that in the room.

Next, the sheathing elements are treated with an antiseptic compound (if possible and, if necessary, with an insecticide). This can be done either using ordinary brushes, processing everything in order and carefully. If the volume of work is large enough, then you can build a small trough from boards and cover it with polyethylene. We pour an antiseptic composition there and dip each of the bars. This option will provide high-quality protection against mold and mildew.

Antiseptic trough

Preparing the walls

While the timber is drying, we prepare the surface of the walls. To do this, mark the width of the racks using a pencil and using a level so that all the lines are as even as possible. Such a “drawing” will allow you to clearly see how the entire structure will subsequently look, simplifying the work and controlling the correct location of the sheathing elements.

You should also determine the starting point for installing the sheathing. It can be the lowest corner available in the room (we find it using a water or laser level). After the necessary measurements, we draw out the wall and draw a horizontal line.

Marking Lathing with timber

How to hide wall defects

If the unevenness is significant, then it is necessary to secure the beam using special hangers, which should be positioned in a line (every half a meter) and secured perpendicularly. The prices for this type of fasteners are low, so the costs will not increase significantly. When fastening, the ends of the hangers are bent in the direction of the bar, after which it is leveled and fixed. This option is convenient due to its simplicity and accuracy: you can level surfaces quite quickly and easily.

Wooden wedges can also be used: they are the most important element for leveling significant unevenness in the surface of the walls. Prepare a certain number of wedges of different sizes in advance and treat them with antiseptics. As practice says, they tend to come in handy in most cases.

Hangers will help align the frames evenly

The installation of the sheathing under the lining is constantly monitored by level. We check the position of the bars and only then fasten them. To strengthen the angle, you can install a jumper in these places. This ensures maximum rigidity of the frame and simplifies fastening in corners.

How to lay lining on complex walls

Ecology of knowledge. Estate: Among the many building materials, wood has always occupied, and will certainly continue to occupy, a place of honor. No matter how technologies and methods of wood processing change, there are probably no materials in construction that are more versatile than wood.

In modern interiors, the theme of “correct geometry” is popular among designers and decorators. The main point of the teaching is to achieve the most correct interior from a geometric point of view.

After all the preparatory work has been done and the logs are covered with guides, you can begin installation. If you carry it out in a new, not yet settled, wooden house or in a bathhouse, then you should leave a gap of one and a half to two centimeters between the panels and the ceiling. It is needed so that the shrinkage of the structure, which will certainly occur within two to three years, is compensated.

There are two options for how to properly join the lining along the length:

• in one line;
• with seams staggered, or in a checkerboard pattern.

In the first case, you will get one vertical seam. It will need to be covered with a lath or plank (or any other profile) upon completion of installation. This design will look more advantageous and serve for many years.

In the second case, it is necessary to grind the ends of the part so that the seam is as little noticeable as possible. Each new row should begin with the cut board in the previous row. In this way, waste-free installation of the material will be achieved, which is obviously more economical.

Mount selection

To fasten the lining along the length, you can use both nails and self-tapping screws or clamps. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.

A kleimer is a device designed specifically for these purposes, so if you want to make it easier to join the lining during finishing and repairs, choose it. It slides into the groove of the lamella and is tapped until it completely adheres to the board.

For fastening with nails, it is most convenient to use a hammer to avoid deforming the edge of the board with hammer blows. The nail should be inserted into the groove at an angle of approximately 45 degrees and driven into the middle with a hammer. After that, you can hammer it completely with a hammer. The disadvantage of this traditional method is that even using a punch, it is rarely possible to avoid deformation of the groove edge. The second drawback is the lubricant with which all nails that go on sale are treated: both hands and gloves will be dirty, and if you then touch an untreated board, you can easily ruin its appearance.

In order for the joints to look neat in the end, you should take a responsible approach to the choice of cornices and skirting boards, which can hide all the imperfections and become the highlight of the interior.

Even the meaning of European-quality renovation rests on obtaining even parts of the room: walls, floor, ceiling. In our buildings, the walls have been uneven since the beginning of construction. Sometimes it seems as if they were erecting a building with their eyes closed: numerous waves, voids on the surface that are not always easy to remove. So, if you are trying to ensure that your apartment meets at least some standards, then quickly start leveling the walls.

Laying the paneling correctly

It doesn’t matter at all what method you use to cover the walls, you will still have to level them. Of course, walls are often leveled with putty, but now this work is not cheap, takes a lot of time, and is complicated by finding a specialist who can do an excellent job of stretching the walls.

And even with this leveling of the wall, you may not achieve a successful result, because you cannot put a lot of gypsum mixture on the roughest defects of the wall. Many people choose to use plasterboard for the walls, but this is only a rough draft and they will need to apply finishing touches to the walls in the form of painting, wallpaper, etc.

The easiest way to hide uneven walls is with clapboard or shalevka. It will turn out neat, impressive and smooth. And here it doesn’t really matter what material you choose - because, regardless of whether your lining is made of wood or plastic, you will get the same result - a perfectly smooth monolithic wall covering.

The main thing is how to lay the lining on curved walls correctly and follow the required technological process.

Remember: under no circumstances should lining be glued, nailed, or screwed onto a bare wall, especially if there is a question about leveling the surface. This technology was invented by lazy people and “experts” in making easy money.

Slats and profiles are sewn onto the wall and mounted, only then the trim in the form of a shalevka is installed on the created frame. In addition to leveling out unevenness, space is needed between the curved wall and the finish so that moisture does not accumulate and ventilation works. Imagine if your wood panels would rot on the side of the wall? Will fungus “grow” under the plastic or on the wall itself? Will you take it apart? You can’t argue with the coefficient of linear expansion, when the material expands under the influence of a temperature difference. And the video and photo of covering the walls once again convinces of the need for a frame for the shalevka.

Horizontal and vertical installation of shalevki

When everything is prepared and you can start constructing the sheathing, it’s time to decide how your cladding will be directed, vertically or horizontally. The frame for cladding is always installed perpendicular to the finishing: horizontal arrangement of the shalevka - vertical arrangement of slats, vertical lining - horizontally located structure.

The placement of the sheathing panels will follow the goal you have in lining up the walls. Construction laws apply here: if you plan to visually expand the room, then sheathe it horizontally.

If you want to raise the ceiling, choose a vertical arrangement of the shalevka. Imagine gluing striped wallpaper, the same with clapboard. So you can solve the question of how to lay the paneling vertically or horizontally by looking at interesting images of rooms with a horizontal or vertical arrangement of the paneling.

If you plan to cover curved walls with clapboard yourself, then you will need to understand the peculiarities of the vertical and horizontal arrangement of the finish.

Secrets of the masters

When planning the vertical arrangement of the shalevka, you need to install the boards with the sound wood facing outwards, all traces of sawing should be correctly directed downwards. This cladding will allow you to qualitatively finish all uneven and curved wall surfaces. The vertical position of the shawl should start from the corner. Vertical finishing works great on curved surfaces.

Horizontal cladding boards are installed with the core side facing outwards; work on installing the finishing should begin from the ceiling to the floor, trying to direct the grooves downwards. With such a lining, the forcing spike will also be located at the top, thereby eliminating the accumulation of moisture. It is very difficult to obtain curved lines on the wall surface with this arrangement of the sheathing; in some places the boards will even have to be bent. During work, you need to constantly check the already installed finish so that it is in a horizontal position. The sheathing ends at the floor; the very last board must be measured in width and cut using an ax or a special saw.

Sometimes the location of the shalevka is fundamentally important, for example, in a bathhouse or sauna. In such rooms it is better to give preference to the horizontal method, since the finishing below will be in the most unfavorable conditions and the deformed place will definitely have to be changed. In a vertical position, replacing the lining will be more difficult.

Advanced craftsmen sheathe walls in an interesting way, installing the lining at an oblique angle - diagonally. Such walls look creative and unconventional. But you will have to spend a lot of time on this method, and without special skills nothing will work. published by econet.ru If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to the specialists and readers of our project here.

Installation of insulation and waterproofing

After placing the bars, insulation material can be laid between them. It can be mineral wool, penoplex with polystyrene foam, and other variations on the theme. The thickness of the insulation varies depending on the purpose of the room itself, as well as the climatic environment. For example, in a bathhouse such indicators can reach ten centimeters (the need to ensure a minimum of heat loss).

After installing the insulation, we install a waterproofing film and protection against condensation. This is extremely necessary, for example, in the bathroom, in the steam room, or in rooms where the humidity is higher than normal. We cover the entire surface of the walls with foil, including the timber. For fastening, we use short pieces of timber, which we fasten to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.

Sheathing for lining: installation of foil

We install an additional beam (seal) in the ceiling and under the plinth. It provides maximum fit and also protects the “pie” of the walls from moisture and steam.

At this stage, installation work is considered complete. You can additionally coat it with a protective agent (varnish) and dry it.

Preparatory moment. Marking and counting

It is present in every type of installation work.

• take all necessary measurements in the room;
• calculate the required amount of finishing material;
• decide how many consumables you need to purchase for the frame structure;
• equip your work area, getting rid of everything unnecessary; if there is any large furniture nearby, it is better to cover it with film to avoid contamination.

Calculation of the required number of parts

They should be taken with reserve. Perhaps some part will be damaged during transportation and installation. There is a certain percentage of defects in ready-made kits. Each prefabricated element must be checked upon purchase.

The calculations use the area of ​​the visible part that is not hidden by the grooves and protrusions covering the joints. To find out the required number of prefabricated elements, the floor area is divided into it, taking into account the finishing of the walls.

If the last row turns out to be cropped, you need to calculate how it relates to the whole. If its width is half the size of the whole, it will require half the material to create it. The boards can be cut and each half used as a separate prefabricated element.

• Doors and partitions

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Features of lining installation

In most cases, lining panels are not attached directly to the wall, but to the sheathing, which eliminates the occurrence of deformations and premature destruction of the finish.

The distance between the bars should not exceed 60 cm

Between the beams of the sheathing, as a rule, heat and waterproofing material is laid.

The thickness of the bars depends on the thickness of the insulation

Several lamella layouts are used:

• Vertical. Laying begins from any corner (preferably in the direction from the light, so that the joints of the panels are not obscured), the first board is installed with the groove outward.

  
  This scheme is used when finishing rooms with high humidity (baths, saunas, opening verandas), since moisture is less likely to accumulate in vertical seams.

• Horizontal from bottom to top. The panels are positioned so that the groove points up and the tenon points down.

• Horizontal from top to bottom. The groove looks down and the tenon looks up.
• Diagonal and combined. Complex designs can give a unique look to a room, but require professional execution.

Fastening elements must not only securely fix the parts, but also be as inconspicuous as possible so as not to spoil the appearance of the decorative coating. In practice, several types of fixing the lining to the sheathing are used.

What is the difference between lining and eurolining

Both the first and second options allow you to finish any surface with high quality. However, eurolining differs in some characteristics:

• Euromaterial is produced from other types of wood using other technological processes;
• has an elongated groove for fastening;
• it has other geometric parameters;
• products undergo higher quality drying and special processing;
• characterized by an additional ventilation function;
• has a system for removing accumulated moisture, which protects the wood from destructive processes (special grooves are made on the back side of the panel so as not to disturb the aesthetics of the wood);
• has a higher cost.

Fastening with finishing nails

Finishing nails are special nails of small thickness. They easily enter the material without causing cracking. Their distinctive feature is a reduced cap, which is easily recessed into the thickness of the part. Unlike construction nails, finishing nails cannot withstand increased loads and are used only for hidden fastening of finishing materials in structures that will not be subject to shrinkage, tearing and bending. This installation method is not suitable for installing temporary coverings, since it is almost impossible to remove a thin nail from the panel.

Mounting on clamps

Clamps are special stamped brackets with a hook and holes designed for fastening finishing panels. Products are available in several sizes for various types of lining and finishing panels.

This type of installation is more labor-intensive and expensive, but has a number of advantages:

• Durability of the structure. The clamps are rigidly fixed to the sheathing, and not to the lining. The structure of the panels is not damaged, which eliminates the occurrence of cracks and other damage. The likelihood of mechanical defects is reduced and the overall service life of the skin is increased.
• The lamellas on the brackets can be easily removed without damaging the material.
• High aesthetics - the clamp connection ensures a tight fit of the panels to each other, while the fastening elements themselves remain invisible. The clamps remain inside the connection

The work is performed in the following sequence:

• Place the first plank with a tenon in a corner (for vertical mounting), in the ceiling or floor (for horizontal mounting) and firmly attach it to the sheathing beams through nails or self-tapping screws.
• Place clamps on the edge with the groove and secure the panel through the holes with self-tapping screws.
• Insert the second part with a tenon into the groove of the previous one and press it tightly along its entire length, using a tamper and a hammer.
• Place clamps on the free edge with the groove and attach it to the sheathing beams. Insert the next lamella, etc.
• Every 7-10 panels, check that they are installed correctly with a level.

Useful video on choosing clamps and attaching them to self-tapping screws:
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Dimensions of the lining: main parameters of the panels and method of their installation

As everyone knows, lining today is a fairly popular material for finishing premises, both internal and external. Your attention should be paid to the dimensions of the lining, because when purchasing such material, this parameter is important.

If you buy it in the right size, you can save money, and this indicator is very important when renovating a house or apartment, because everyone wants to make repairs cheaper, but not lose quality.

Wood product

For reference: Why is the material in question called lining? Yes, because once upon a time freight cars were covered with wooden boards, which they still do in principle. If earlier this material was used exclusively for carriages, today it is used everywhere, for interior and exterior cladding, in any room or room.

Installation of lining and its parameters

Wooden lining

Wooden panel - standard

• Most often, a wooden panel is made from: alder, larch, linden and pine needles. The most popular is considered to be made from oak, but it is worth considering that the cost of such material is not small. The dimensions of the lining boards can be different, but the standard provides for a maximum length of 6 meters, width - 15 centimeters;
• According to the standard, the thickness of the lining can be 13-24 centimeters, but there are some nuances here. The size of the lining, as we have already said, can be different, but if the thickness is 20-25 millimeters, then such panels have shorter tongues than others, but the principle of fastening remains the same;
• Wooden panels are used everywhere, but you need to know which types of wood can be used under certain indoor conditions. For example, it is better not to use coniferous trees in places with high humidity; larch is only suitable for interior decoration.

Tip: Before purchasing wooden products, make sure that the wood you choose is suitable for the room you are going to decorate with it.

European standard products

• There are also wood panels called eurolining. This building material differs from its analogues in that all parameters are standardized. If domestic manufacturers can vary the size of the product, then the eurolining has exact parameters without deviations.

Important! It should be noted that wood panels can be used for both interior and exterior decoration. Typically, for interior decoration, material up to 16 millimeters thick is used, but on the outside, the thickness of the material can be 16 millimeters or more.

MDF lining

MDF panels can imitate different types of wood

• Today, MDF panels are popular, there are enough reasons for this. Let's start with the fact that this material imitates any type of wood, which means that at a very low price you can create a chic interior at home, and it will look truly rich. The installation instructions will help you quickly and easily create a completed image of your room or space.

Parameters of MDF products

PVC lining

PVC panels

• There are several types of polyvinyl chloride panels, they differ in appearance: glossy, matte and semi-gloss. Most often, glossy panels are used for interior decoration; the rest can be used both inside and outside. There are risky people who want their outside facade to be glossy, but believe me, this does not lead to anything good;

Note! Glossy lining does not withstand temperature changes and strong winds, so it will not last long if you decide to cover the outside of your house with it.

• Semi-gloss panels are considered the most durable, just to keep this in mind. In most cases, the quality of the material depends on the manufacturer itself, as does its price. Glossy panel models are considered the most expensive, but they cannot be called the most durable;
• If we talk about parameters, then the dimensions of PVC lining are not fixed, but most often, their length does not exceed 6 meters, like other types.

Let's start installation

Installation on the lathing

• To save on repairs, you can do the installation yourself, but before that, you need to learn how to do it correctly so that problems do not arise later. So, first you must make a sheathing on which the lining will be attached. You cannot mount it directly on the wall. This installation option is possible only if the walls in your house are completely smooth, that is, ideal - this usually does not happen;

U-shaped canopies for sheathing

• If the walls in the room are uneven, and this happens in 99% of cases, then for the sheathing you should use U-shaped galvanized canopies (shown in the photo above). The entire structure rests on such details;

Fastening with clamps

• If the thickness of the finishing material does not exceed 16 millimeters, then clamps can be used for fastening; if the thickness exceeds 16 mm, then fastening is done using self-tapping screws or nails. Docking along the length of the lining can be invisible if you attach it carefully and without haste.

Profile for joining PVC panels

• How to join the lining along the length, you ask. The answer is very simple, you shouldn’t even bother with such trifles. For this process, an N-shaped profile is used. Thus, you get an ideal design that you made with your own hands, and besides, if everything is done correctly, it will serve you for many years;
• Do not forget that before attaching the panels to the sheathing, you need to decide whether you will insulate the walls or the ceiling? If the answer is yes, then you need to do this before you start installation. If it's an attic, you can create a moisture barrier to prevent dampness on the top floor of your home.

Advice! When starting to install PVC panels, do not forget that on the first one, which you will attach to the sheathing, you need to cut the chamfer, then the panel will fit tightly into the guide-type profile.

Summary

In the video you can view the entire repair step by step and in detail. You should not overpay for hiring workers if you can carry out the process of installing the lining yourself. Whatever the working width of the lining, the main thing is that it is high-quality material, and the finished structure will serve you for a very long time.

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Self-tapping installation

Through fastening with self-tapping screws through the entire board, and not through a groove, is the simplest, fairly reliable, but not the best solution for wooden lining. With this method, the integrity of the material is compromised, so the holes must be regularly treated with special protective mastics to prevent destruction and rotting of the wood. Despite all efforts, over time, the installation sites of fasteners may become noticeable, which significantly impairs the aesthetics of the decorative finish. Usually the first and last panels are mounted this way for reliability, and for the rest they use fastening with finishing nails or clamps.

No. 5. Fastening the lining with a stapler

This is a variation on the theme of the previous method: instead of nails and a hammer, they use a construction stapler, which has enough power to drive the staple into the lining. This device makes the job much easier, but requires some skill, so it’s better to practice first. If everything is done correctly, the bracket will fit tightly into the wood without interfering with the installation of the next lining element. The stapler can also be used when fastening with clamps.