An electric saw is an electric machine designed for sawing any soft materials (wood, plastic). The working body of any electric saw is a saw unit, consisting of a guide bar, a saw chain, a drive sprocket, a lubrication system and a chain tensioning mechanism. The cutting element of the saw unit is the saw chain. As a cutting tool, the saw chain requires periodic sharpening. Sharpening a power saw chain is not very difficult, but requires special knowledge.
When do you need to sharpen a chainsaw chain?
Before you start sharpening, you should figure out when you should do it:
- The cutting time increases, the power decreases;
- The load, the force applied to operate the chainsaw, has increased;
- Small chips, smaller than before, began to fly out;
- The vibration and recoil of the chainsaw have increased;
- The cut shifts to one side if the teeth on a particular one are dull, or to different sides if on both;
- While cutting, smoke comes out from under the wood;
- A noise similar to a grinding sound appears.
Signs of a dull chain and the consequences of further use
The difficulty of working with a dull chainsaw should not be confused with the difficulty of cutting hardwood or very dry logs. In all these cases, the speed of the operation is reduced, but the blunt instrument has a certain behavior - signs by which one can judge the need for sharpening:
- the chainsaw does not immediately bite into the tree trunk, as if grinding, moving away from the point of contact;
- when cutting soft rocks, the tool sluggishly penetrates the thickness of the wood, you have to put pressure on the bar;
- the shavings from large ones with characteristic oblong particles turn into small thyrsus, which very rarely crumble;
- the chain heats up quickly, an unpleasant smell of burning oil for lubricating the guide bar is heard.
In addition to these alarming signals, always after hitting metal nails, wires with a chain, or burying a chainsaw in the ground, you can be one hundred percent sure of the need for subsequent sharpening of the cutting edges.
What can happen to the instrument in the future if the problem is ignored? The most harmless thing is that it will be impossible to work with a chainsaw; in the end it will get boring and will force you to service the unit. But adherents of the saying “You don’t need intelligence to eat power” can come to the following conclusion:
- extra stress on the body, because, frankly speaking, you have to put pressure on the tool so that it cuts;
- excessive fuel consumption of up to 30%, which is explained by the need to go through a larger revolution cycle to achieve the same result;
- accelerated wear of the tire and other parts of the chainsaw.
In addition to all these negative consequences of a dull saw, there is a high probability of the chain jamming in the barrel and injury to the operator performing the work.
A chainsaw chain consists of teeth
Any cutting link has:
- Blades: a) Vertical end; b) Horizontal;
- Sawing (cutting) depth limiter;
- Spatula;
- The basis.
For the saw to perform its function, the blades must be given a specific angle. The back corner of the top blade cuts into the wood, and the end edge cuts the chips.
The end edge and sliding surface form a rake angle of approximately 70 degrees. When sharpening a chain, you need to remember the key rule: the greater the sharpening angle, the more efficient the cutting of soft wood will be. Therefore, the smaller it is, the more dry and rough it is suitable for.
Before sharpening, you need to prepare the chain. To do this, all worn parts are replaced, and the chain itself is cleaned, chips, dust and other debris that can lead to defects are removed.
Also, the chain is tightened a little more than it was before the process. Find the smallest cutting tooth, because during sharpening all other teeth need to be ground down to its level.
There are several methods for sharpening a chain on a chainsaw and are divided into manual and mechanical.
Expert recommendations
There are useful tips for sharpening your chainsaw quickly and efficiently. General recommendations:
- first you need to run in the headset at low speeds, this allows the lubricant to get to each element of the tire;
- the circuit must be energized; loosening may result in injury, especially when using an electric machine;
- It is recommended to edit the headset after each prolonged use of the tool, carefully check the teeth before starting sawing;
- lubricate each element of the tire in a timely manner, which not only improves the process of working with wood, but also reduces the load on the rotor and engine.
The depth of cut, the condition of the cutting edge and the stop must be checked after 3-4 sharpenings. It is recommended to check the template for your specific headset model.
Sharpening a chainsaw chain is an integral part of working with this tool. The sharpness of the teeth affects performance and safety during sawing. To straighten the cutting edge of the tire, you can use an electric or manual machine; at home it is easier to use a file. You should take into account the features of a specific headset model and measure each element with a template.
Manual sharpening of chainsaw chain
Sharpening with a file. To work, you will need files with standard sizes 4 (length 200 mm) and 5 (length 250 or 350 mm).
For different types of pitch on the chain, the appropriate files are used:
- 1/4 inch pitch – file diameter 4.0 mm;
- Pitch 0.325 inches - file diameter 4.8 mm;
- 3/8 inch pitch - file diameter 5.2 mm;
- Pitch 0.404 inches - file diameter 5.2 mm.
The process occurs when performing manipulations:
- The tire is clamped in a vice or simply until it is motionless;
- A clamp is put on the file for convenience and to reduce the risk of breaking a tooth;
- Using a clamp with a file at an angle of 25-30 degrees, the teeth are sharpened on the chain with smooth and easy movements;
- The upper edge of the file protrudes beyond the tooth by 1/5 of its diameter;
- Pass the clamp 7 times along the tooth;
- The chain tooth is changed.
The teeth on the other side are sharpened in the same way. For example, we started with the left, which means the saw turns around and the right ones are sharpened. When working with a file, it is recommended to use special templates.
Useful tips
The following recommendations will be useful in your work:
- To begin, place the tool on a flat, stable surface—a table or bench works well. If you are in a forest, then just find a wide log or stump. Check the teeth around the entire circumference for chips and other defects: it may turn out that some teeth have broken.
- Set the saw brake to working condition - this action will block the movement of the chain along the bar. Make sure that the cutting element is taut during sharpening. It is recommended to place a stand in the form of a log or a regular piece of branch under the tire - this way it will not fall through when pressed. You can purchase special clamps to hold the tire in a stationary position.
- During the sharpening process, the file moves from the inside of the tooth to the outer edge of the edge, turning the file around its axis. In this case, the tool must be moved parallel to a special mark located on the chain. This mark serves as an indicator of the correct sharpening angle of the cutting edge. For the convenience of the process itself, the tooth you are processing should be located in the center of the splint.
- All sharpening work must be carried out in protective clothing and gloves, since the cutting edge of the teeth is very sharp, so there is a high probability of injury. For uniform sharpening, manufacturers recommend performing the same number of file movements for each tooth; in practice, this recommendation can only be applied to teeth that are not damaged.
- For easier sharpening, the file can be used in conjunction with a special holder, on which the permissible angles are marked. With the help of such marks, teeth can be sharpened not only for transverse, but also for longitudinal cutting of wood. Using a holder will also be useful for people who, unlike professionals, do not have proper experience in this matter.
Sources:
- https://nashgazon.com/instrument/pily/zatochka-tsepei-dlya-benzopil.html
- https://lesoteka.com/instrument-i-oborudovanie/zatochit-tsep-benzopily
- https://store.fubag.ru/tips/kak-zatochit-tsep-benzopily-napilnikom-stankom-ushm-i-drugimi-sposobami/
- https://obenzopilah.ru/service/kak-zatochit-cep-benzopily.html
- https://homius.ru/kak-zatochit-cep-benzopily.html
- https://www.vseinstrumenti.ru/rashodnie-materialy/sadovaya-tehnika/benzopily/zatochnye-nabory-i-napilniki/articles/kak-zatochit-cep-benzopily/
- https://arendavlg.com/benzopily/zatochka-cepi-benzopily-sovety-specialistov.html
- https://dm-st.ru/konstruktivnyie-osobennosti-pilnyih-tsepey-i-uhod-za-nimi
- https://PromkomRostov.ru/proizvodstvo-i-obrabotka/zatochka-cepi-dlya-prodolnogo-pileniya-2.html
- https://prokatinstrymenta.ru/zatochka-tsepej-dlya-benzopil-svoimi-rukami/
- https://benzopilok.ru/zatochka/tochim-cep-benzopily-svoimi-rukami.html
- https://www.bigam.ru/stati/kak-tochit-tsep-benzopily/
- https://FB.ru/article/351117/kakoy-pravilnyiy-ugol-zatochki-tsepey-benzopil
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- https://obrabotkametalla.info/pilit/sposoby-zatochki-cepi-benzopily-svoimi-rukami
Sharpening a chainsaw chain using a grinder
- The tire is clamped with a vice;
- The angle grinder (angle grinder) is set at low speed;
- The disk of the machine relative to the tooth is located at an angle of 30 degrees, a slight error is possible;
- Lightly press the tooth with a machine;
- After sharpening, the chain rotates to the next tooth.
During such sharpening, the main thing is to take time so as not to overheat and oversharpen the tooth. It would be more practical to use the method with a file, since there is less chance of making a mistake, however, in the method with a grinder, less time is spent, but extreme precision is also required.
Choosing a tool class for use at home and in the country
A chainsaw is an indispensable assistant in the home and countryside. With its help, you can easily clear a log of knots, cut down a dried tree, take care of a garden, prepare firewood for the heating season, and perform other activities related to wood cutting.
In order to understand which chainsaw to choose, you need to know the operating principle of a technically quite complex tool, and navigate the variety of models offered on the modern construction market. In this case, it is necessary to decide on the expected scale of work, as well as with what intensity and frequency the unit will be used; even the gender of the employee should be taken into account.
So which chainsaw is best for the home? To choose the right unit, you should start by assessing the power of the tool and the duration of continuous operation. According to these parameters, chainsaws are divided into the following classes:
- Household tools. They are not designed to perform large volumes of work and are not very powerful. Using units of this class, it is possible to produce seasonal firewood in small quantities; thick logs cannot be cut. But they are light in weight and have minimal fuel consumption; they are easy to hold and carry. The duration of continuous operation is from forty minutes to an hour per day. This is the kind of chainsaw you can choose for your home.
- Semi-professional class units. With their help, you can saw fairly thick logs lengthwise and crosswise, but carrying the tool is already quite difficult. The engine is of average power and fuel consumption is not very high. The duration of continuous operation in a daily cycle reaches up to ten hours. Such a unit can be chosen for subsidiary farming.
- Professional grade devices. They are characterized by high power, weight and fuel consumption. With the help of chainsaws of this class, you can cut down forest for twenty hours without a break. The materials from which they are made are distinguished by their durability and quality. Such equipment is expensive, so for household work it is better to rent it.
Sharpening a chainsaw chain on a machine
Sharpening on the machine:
- The chain is installed on a holder with a blocker and fixed on it;
- The horizontal position is set, the angle is 30 degrees;
- The lever adjusts the angle of the grinding wheel;
- A limiter is installed to prevent the possibility of lowering the chain too low and cutting it;
- After finishing sharpening one side, the holder with the chain is turned around and the other is sharpened.
Good sharpening can be determined by the presence of reflection. If it is not there, then the blade is sharp enough and there is no point in continuing to sharpen. Any reflection of light or glare indicates the need to sharpen it sharper.
After sharpening the teeth, you need to adjust the height of the depth stop using a gauge, placing it on top of the chain. When the limiter protrudes beyond the gauge, its height is adjusted with a file. The excess top is ground down to the caliber level.
When sharpening teeth, my own problems may arise, and with them the consequences:
- Very sharp sharpening angle. Consequences: after sharpening during operation, the teeth will experience too much stress and eventually break off, the cut will be aggressive and difficult;
- The front angle is tilted forward. Consequences: high kickback of the saw, reduced wear resistance of the chain;
- Obtuse angle. Consequences: high kickback of the saw, great effort is applied to cut;
- Differences in front angles. Consequences: saw getting stuck in wood;
- Different sharpening angles. Consequences: crooked, uneven cut.
Tips on how to reduce chain and tooth wear:
- The top should be well tensioned;
- Before working with a chainsaw, warm up the teeth for several minutes;
- Carry out timely sharpening;
- Regularly check the lubrication system and the presence of lubricant on parts;
- Store the chainsaw under normal conditions.
When sharpening, especially on a machine, safety precautions must be observed.
Everything should be secured securely so that the chain or saw does not fall out during the process. It is also necessary to take into account all the requirements for sharpening and the order of implementation, force, do it carefully and without sudden movements, so as not to dull or chip off the teeth, without finally breaking the chain itself. Before work, it is worth spending a little time and checking the chain.
What are the dangers of working with a blunt instrument?
You should not use a dull chainsaw chain.
Working with a faulty tool in itself is fraught with many unpleasant consequences, and here are some of them:
- Reduced efficiency, that is, less work will be completed in the same time.
- The mechanism begins to wear out, and individual parts are also at risk of breaking.
- Excessive fuel consumption.
Photo instructions for sharpening a chainsaw chain
Saw design
To better understand what a chainsaw is and how it works, it is advisable to know how it works.
By the way, it would be more correct to call the cutting tool of a chainsaw a saw chain.
The first saw chains appeared at the beginning of the twentieth century. The designers did not begin to puzzle; they simply mounted teeth on the chain, which quickly lost their functionality. In appearance they resembled those that stand on hand hacksaws for wood. Sharpening such a chainsaw caused great difficulties. But repeated attempts to create the perfect saw chain were crowned with success only in 1947.
Chainsaw device
This chainsaw has links with an L-shaped cut. Modern chains are, in fact, the direct ancestors of this development.
If during work the cutting speed begins to decrease, the chainsaw in the hands of the master begins to “walk”, then most likely the saw chain has lost its operational properties, that is, it has become dull and measures must be taken to restore them.
Ways to solve current problems
Inexpensive chainsaw equipment is equipped with relatively short-lived budget-level saw sets. In the future, such tires and chains will be replaced by more prestigious and durable models.
Practitioners offer an original way to increase the strength and wear resistance of budget devices, known as stabilizing the internal structure of the metal.
To do this, the new tire is heated in an oil bath for one and a half to two weeks at a temperature of 55-65°C. The effectiveness of this technology is confirmed by positive reviews from owners of household models.
