Do-it-yourself finishing of windows from the outside with metal slopes: types, installation and installation

Protecting the window opening is a mandatory action after installing a plastic structure.
It is necessary to take a responsible approach to the choice of material.

This will increase the service life of the slopes and the performance characteristics of the entire block.

Let's take a closer look at metal slopes and their installation on PVC windows.

How can you seal window slopes from the outside?

From the outside, the structure can be sealed with a variety of different materials. Suitable:

plaster mixtures;
PVC panels;
siding;
metal;
clinker tiles;
drywall;
sandwich panels;
expanded polystyrene;
wood;
natural stone.

Slopes provide additional insulation of walls and windows.

Plaster

Decorating with plaster is a traditional, most economical, easy-to-use finishing method. Dry building mixtures are used for it, but the process takes longer than other options. As a finishing decoration, additional painting is done.

Plastering is the most economical way to finish slopes.

Plastic

Plastic slopes are perfectly combined with metal-plastic windows; they are easy and quick to install, including with your own hands. The material is distinguished by high heat-insulating properties, resistance to “cruel” natural phenomena - it is not afraid of high humidity, and does not deteriorate in severe frost. The product improves sound insulation, is compatible with all types of insulation, and does not require leveling before starting installation work. The use of foamed PVC panels additionally insulates the room; the material does not flake when exposed to high temperatures, and does not lose shape from cold and moisture.

The use of sheet plastic allows finishing work to be carried out as quickly and accurately as possible.

Siding

Decorating with siding is one of the budget, but not very durable options. The cellular structure of the material leads to the fact that the slopes gradually become deformed, turn yellow, and swell. Since the siding is hollow, it will provide little protection from the cold; an additional heat-insulating layer is required underneath it.

The material allows you to quickly create an aesthetic coating that has a certain level of thermal insulation and soundproofing.

Drywall

The main disadvantage of drywall is its ability to absorb moisture, therefore, when decorating external slopes with it, the surface is additionally puttied and painted. The material is recommended for finishing windows facing glazed balconies, verandas, loggias.

It is also quite suitable for cladding external slopes if the windows overlook a glazed loggia, balcony or terrace.

Sandwich panels

Such three-layer panels, consisting of two layers of plastic and a sheet of insulation (extruded polystyrene foam), are optimally suited for decorating the sides of a window opening. Thanks to them, the opening receives something like a “thermal coat” with high sound insulation. Sandwich panels are similar in appearance to plastic panels; they do not need additional decor. Installation of such slopes requires strict adherence to the instructions, and it is better to purchase the parts ready-made.

They have low thermal conductivity and do not require additional finishing.

Styrofoam

Insulation using polystyrene foam is a simple and cheap option. This material retains heat well, it is low-flammable, lightweight, and easy to cut into any shape. For work, a product with a thickness of two cm and high density is used. Expanded polystyrene is also often used - it is much stronger than polystyrene foam in bending (about five times), has better sound insulation characteristics, and practically does not absorb water.

Slopes covered with foam plastic will save heat in the house and protect from external noise.

Metal

The option of finishing windows with metal slopes on the outside is one of the most popular. The metal here is covered with a polymer layer, performing an excellent heat-insulating function and protecting the walls from freezing and blowing by even the strongest wind. The cost of the product is high, but due to the polymer coating, the structure does not rust and lasts as long as possible.

Choosing metal as a finishing material for external window slopes is a reliable, aesthetic, and durable solution.

A natural stone

Decorating any window openings with natural stone is a labor-intensive, expensive method, but luxurious, strong, durable

It is important to consider that stone elements create additional load on the walls and foundation. It is also permissible to use artificial stone

Finishing from natural stone is an impeccable, stylish and sophisticated appearance of the slopes, unsurpassed durability and guaranteed strength.

Metal slopes for windows - scope of application and manufacturing features

External slopes of this type are used both for the design of window and door openings, and are especially relevant for owners of private houses. Due to the integrity of the structure, and that is exactly what it is, all dimensions are measured in advance with exceptional precision and are indicated during the manufacture of these elements; they reliably protect all seams from the penetration of moisture and ultraviolet radiation. Their use on the ground floors of houses is also very important.

As for the manufacturing features, a similar technique for external finishing of door and window openings was known back in Soviet times. However, today, with such rapid development of technology, it is clear that it has also improved a lot. Modern slopes are made of galvanized steel, which itself has excellent characteristics, including corrosion resistance, which is so important, especially considering their specifications. A special polymer coating is applied on top. Thanks to it, such products have a very long service life and increased strength, which makes them so in demand.

Instructions on how to install external structures with your own hands

Now we will tell you step by step how to install metal slopes on plastic or other windows, and what needs to be done for this. After all the preparatory work and measurements, the process is divided into several stages:

If the slopes are cut out yourself, then all measurements taken earlier are transferred to a sheet of metal, and the contours are cut out with special scissors.

Preparing the opening for installation work:

Trim off excess foam with a paint knife. Clean the opening from dust and dirt, treat it with an antiseptic to prevent the appearance of mold and mildew. If necessary, seal all cracks with plaster (find out how to seal seams and cracks when installing slopes with plaster and other methods here). Next, all seams are covered with sealant.

The most critical stage is the installation of ebb and corners. How to install and secure them:

The first step is to install the lower part - the ebb. It is leveled using a level gauge

To prevent the metal from making a strong noise when it rains, you should place noise-insulating material (noise-absorbing tape or a thin layer of polyurethane foam) under the part.

Important If the mounting foam, which is applied to the lower part of the flashing and slightly to the base of the window frame, begins to lift the structure, you must evenly press down the flashing with something heavy along its entire length. Afterwards the part is screwed to the window frame with self-tapping screws.

The side slopes are attached next

It should be remembered that the upper and lower parts have a slope from the inner edge to the outer, so the edges of the part are cut in accordance with the angle of contact with the ebb and the corners of the opening.

At the same time, competent measurements and careful cutting will prevent the formation of cracks, and all slopes will fall into place. After precise installation, the side parts are attached to the window frame with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

The last element to be installed is the external cladding element, which is also fastened with self-tapping screws. For better thermal insulation, all cracks are filled with polyurethane foam (find out in this article how to properly work with polyurethane foam when installing window slopes, and what to look for when choosing foam).

Careful inspection of all joints and cracks, which are additionally filled with sealant (how and with what to seal the seams after installing the slopes?).

We invite you to watch a video on how to install external metal slopes with your own hands:

Installing metal slopes with your own hands is not particularly difficult, the main thing is accuracy in measurements and careful installation of this facade element, which, despite its relatively high cost, can last for decades.

Manufacturing nuances

The production of metal protection has been actively developing in our country since Soviet times. The technology is being improved, so each such product is reliable and has a long service life. Today, you can mainly find galvanized slopes, which are made from steel of the same name, resistant to corrosion processes. The inner side of the steel is covered with a layer of soil. A special polymer coating is applied on top of the product to enhance its strength. The structure resembles a metal tile or corrugated sheet: a layer of zinc guarantees protection against rust, and polymer powder paint prevents mechanical damage to the zinc.

The production of slopes occurs only after the completion of the measuring stage, because the width and height of the product must correspond to the opening from the inside and outside. The side segments, as well as the upper and lower parts, are simply cut out from a sheet of metal prepared in advance, focusing on the collected dimensional data. The optimal thickness of the steel sheet is also determined by the parameters of the opening, but also by the required degree of rigidity. Thin metal is more often used - no thicker than 0.55 mm.

Wet finishing method

This cladding variation is the most traditional and economical option. The simplicity and simplicity of this method makes it possible to plaster and paint the slopes yourself. To finish the surface, you need to prepare a dry mixture based on cement or gypsum. It should be noted that this type of work differs in the duration of the manipulations performed. And also the “fur coat” needs to be dyed periodically.

Before plastering external walls, they should be prepared. Preparation consists of cleaning from dirt, defects, and excess foam. To protect the window, it is recommended to cover the structure with masking tape. Plastering slopes should be done in stages:

The first step is to install the beacons at a distance of up to 5 cm from the window frame; fixation is done with nails.
The thickness of the plaster layer should cover the window by 1 cm. The generally accepted thickening is 2 cm. The corners should be aligned with a square.
After making sure that the opening is clean, it is possible to apply a primer. Priming is intended to improve the adhesion of the plaster to the base.

Puttying external slopes

The cement-gypsum mortar should be applied over the beacons and smoothed with a spatula. Manipulations must be done from the bottom up.
After the first layer has dried, the beacons should be removed, and the locations should be covered and leveled.
1 layer of plaster should not exceed 7 mm. It should be taken into account that it is correct to apply a new layer of plaster only on the dried previous layer. Also, don't forget about angular alignment.
After the plaster has set, the wooden frame is removed, and the defects are covered and smoothed.
You can slightly moisten the coating with a wet rag and remove any imperfections using a grater.
After thorough drying, whitewash or paint is applied.

The window must be closed during work. Because if the mixture penetrates into the fittings, functionality may be impaired. An obvious negative property of the finishing method is the failure to combine the cement mortar with the PVC profile. This contributes to the appearance of a hole between the slope and the frame base. Therefore, the resulting gaps should be sealed with silicone-based sealant.

Tips and tricks

Metal slopes are not the only choice; if desired, the window opening can be decorated with decorative stone, stucco, or wooden panels

Installing slopes with your own hands is a commendable task, but long and thankless if a person has not done anything like that. There are special companies engaged in small construction work. These offices perform them very efficiently and care about their reputation. These are not window suppliers where everything gets done as quickly as possible.

Plastic, metal, drywall, siding, standard plaster - this is tested and reliable, and the choice of material is up to the owner. It is based on the personal preferences and financial capabilities of the owner, especially if events develop in a standard high-rise building.

If it comes to your own private home, lovingly built over decades, you can come up with something original, like handmade sculpting, natural stone or carved wooden panels. The simplest, cheapest and most functional are chosen by people who do not care about other people’s opinions or their own sense of the beauty of the home in which they live. There is no point in consoling yourself that this is only temporary. It’s better to make it high quality, durable and beautiful. It may take a little longer and be more expensive, but it will last a long time.

Selecting the necessary tools and components

Before starting work, prepare the necessary fittings and tools. Since finishing window slopes from the outside involves cutting siding panels, you will need the appropriate tool (any of the proposed ones, convenient for you):

Siding around a window whose slope is less than 19 cm

metal scissors for cutting the top of the panel; they are used to make shaped cutting of siding for finishing arched openings;
a fine-tooth hacksaw or power saw for working on wood or metal;
knife-cutter - it is used to draw a strip along the siding panel, and then the panel is bent/unbent.

During the installation process you will also need:

screwdriver;
hammer;
a square that will be used to mark the correct mounting angle on slopes and around windows;
construction (1.5 m) and water levels;
twine and chalk to mark the assembly lines.

As for fittings and components, the use of siding for window slopes will require the required number of screws and certain fittings. It is better when all components and the siding itself are purchased from the same manufacturer - this guarantees the quality and durability of the structure. The fasteners must be original - this will make the cladding perfect. Since original components may seem too expensive to you, make a preliminary drawing - it will help you accurately carry out all the calculations.

Components and screws are purchased according to a pre-calculation - this will save you from problems with finding the right colors or sizes during the work process. Thus, the number of fastening strips is calculated according to a certain algorithm:

The window opening is measured along the perimeter. The distance under the window is minus from the obtained value - if it is planned to install window sills or ebbs here.
10% is added to this value - they take into account trimming and various inaccuracies during the work process.

The main components required for framing windows with siding are:

H- and J-profile;
external and internal corners for decorating panel joints;
low tides;
chamfers;
window and finishing strips.

Set of components for siding installation

Basic rules for carrying out work

Do-it-yourself window siding will be done slightly differently depending on the design of the window opening. As a rule, windows in our houses are made according to several standards:

According to European standards, slopes are less than 19 cm. Then the size of the window strip will be standard - up to 22 cm. It is very easy to attach with your own hands, even by non-professionals - for this they use a finishing profile into which the strip is inserted. The finishing profile can even be replaced with a J-profile and bevel, which will help reduce overall costs.
According to Russian standards, slopes are more than 19 cm. For such windows, you will need a J-profile placed near the frame. An outer corner is mounted around the perimeter of the window, into which the siding panels are inserted.
Windows without a slope - a casing must be installed, and then siding is attached to it.
An arched window requires the use of a flexible J-profile. A regular one will do, but it will need to be cut a little - in those places where the shape of the window bends.

To attach siding around window openings, it is recommended to use standard metal profiles.

The process of designing a window opening begins with installing a starting strip. After this, serial installation is carried out, with each row carefully adjusted to the grooves of the previously installed ones. If a standard size plank cannot be installed in the slope, the sheet is cut to the required dimensions.

Installation diagram of window profiles for siding finishing

After the entire area of the slopes has been sheathed, additional accessories are installed. However, these elements are completely optional - all their functions are performed by standard siding.

Work is being carried out in a special way to cover the arched window opening. Here you will need a special elastic profile. It is secured with nails or self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the window opening. Next, sheathing is carried out - always observing a 15-cm step. Where the siding touches the supporting profile, the strongest possible fastening is ensured - no gaps are left for expansion in arched windows.

If the emphasis is placed on window openings in the design of the facade, then the finishing is done with platbands 6.2 cm wide. If the design of the slopes implies “invisibility,” then preference is given to a narrow J-profile. However, you can independently choose the option that suits you best in terms of decor and price.

Insulation

A process such as thermal insulation is not superfluous; you need to remember that it is the insulation of slopes that can in the future save your internal slopes from excessive moisture formation and subsequent mold.

In principle, any material will do - both mineral wool and polystyrene foam, but the latter is still more convenient for installation.

The polystyrene foam is attached either with glue or with special self-tapping screws - parachutes, but in the case of mineral wool you will have to organize a mini-frame.

Types of external slopes for plastic windows

If you do not install external slopes immediately, but postpone the process for an indefinite period, then soon you will have to repair or replace windows.

Finishing external slopes is an important and final stage of window installation, and such a process is best trusted only to highly qualified specialists. Then the installed windows will delight you with their appearance for many years.

Plastic

The characteristics of the plastic material are transferred to products made from it. This means that plastic slopes have all the qualities that are inherent in the plastic itself. They are durable, wear-resistant, moisture-resistant, and are not afraid of temperature changes.

Few citizens have the equipment at home that “high-rise workers” use, so you will most likely have to hire a team of construction workers to complete the exterior finishing.

Installation of external slopes is carried out in stages:

Preparation of the surface and plastic plates:

All dirt and dust are wiped away from the outside of the window. You should also cut off any foam protruding onto the frame. Places where there is no foam cannot be seen; on the contrary, they should be foamed.
Preparatory work also includes the preparation of the slopes themselves. Plastic external slopes are cut to size from standard wide plates.
Such plates can be found at a hardware store. They need to be cut to size, the end edges need to be cleaned a little so that there are no “torn” parts.
Cut the plastic slowly. The material may be fragile. If you cut it intensively, small chips may fly off, which can injure you.
Installation of the starting, U-shaped profile. It is screwed to the edges of the plastic frame on three sides. The end part of the slope will be embedded in this profile.
Installation of an F-shaped profile around a window opening. It should be installed so that the profile groove is a mirror image of the U-shaped profile. The second part of the slope will be inserted into it.
Now the next step is actually finishing the external slopes of the windows, that is, installing a plastic plate. It can be immediately mounted in the window opening.

But in order to provide additional insulation of the slope, a layer of insulation, for example, cotton wool, should be laid under the plastic.

Siding construction

How to make external slopes with siding? In fact, siding is the same plastic, only it has a corrugated shape. It consists of a set of different types of profiles and finishing plates.

Before installing siding, all external surfaces of the building must be lathed.
Then the siding ventilated facade and external slopes are attached to the sheathing. Siding plates have fastening holes in the upper part through which the material is secured to the sheathing.
Each subsequent plate is superimposed on the previous one, hiding the fastening “seam”. As a result, it turns out that there is no trace of fastenings anywhere on the wall.
External finishing of slopes of plastic windows with siding involves carrying out similar operations as when installing plastic slopes (the difference is in the form of the profiles themselves).
Siding slopes have a special design; various bends and ebbs are used to secure them, allowing you to “assemble a system” of slopes.

Making plaster

Plastering external slopes is the simplest and most common type of finishing. For facade work you need to use facade putty. The operating procedure is as follows:

First you need to cut off excess foam and remove debris. Then the surface should be primed in order to protect it from the formation of fungus and mold.
Next, you should dilute the solution according to the instructions. Then the mixture is applied to the slope and leveled with a spatula.
For work, it is convenient to use two spatulas: one for applying the solution to the wall, the second for puttying and leveling the surface.
Then the surface must be given time to dry.
It should be painted. For work, you can use any facade paint.

Helpful advice!

If necessary, the paint can be tinted with dye.

External slopes made of metal

They are used for finishing windows in buildings, the facade of which is decorated with a metal profile, or rather with metal profile sheets (the finish looks like the surface of a container).

Slopes are made of metal with a polymer coating (colored), or from galvanized sheets. The slopes are secured to the surface with screws or rivets. Color coating and galvanization protect the metal from corrosion; it does not need to be painted later.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=NNL6vQsSC18

Low tide installation

The length of the ebb is greater than the width of the opening, this is done on purpose. The width of the window opening is transferred to the metal ebb panel with an allowance on the sides. Cut off, allowances are cut so that “ears” in the shape of a trapezoid and a triangle are formed at the edges, which will cover the corner of the opening. The trapezoids are bent upward.

After the casting is ready, it must be applied to the bottom of the opening. Before final fastening, a noise-absorbing tape is laid. It's easy to install. A piece of the required length is cut from the skein. Remove the protective paper from the adhesive side and apply the tape. The ends are brought to the side slopes. The tape has a high degree of adhesion to various surfaces (concrete, metal, etc.), the main thing is that there is no dust or debris on them. The tape cannot be painted or plastered, as it will lose its working properties.

Correct installation relative to the surface is checked by level. If the panel is warped, it is necessary to remove the warp with available materials. Any metal or wooden spacers are suitable for height adjustment.

Drill holes in the ebb, base. Fasten with self-tapping screws and dowels.

Installation of metal slopes

Installing metal slopes on windows with your own hands is a simple procedure, but it requires care and attention. To work you will need a minimum set of tools:

Screwdriver with a set of bits.
Tape measure and square.
Metal scissors.
Hammer.
Construction knife (stationery version).
Spatula (if additional preparation is required).
Construction pistol.

Tools required to install a metal slope

It must be taken into account that external work is carried out as quickly as possible. You cannot wait a long period of time after installing window frames. Many people mistakenly believe that work can be delayed during the summer. But the result of such inaction is destroyed polyurethane foam and microscopic cracks that have absorbed a lot of moisture.

Work on the installation of external slopes must be carried out immediately after installing window structures

Stage one - measurements

Carrying out careful measurements is a guarantee that every detail will take its place like a glove.

An important feature of such an event is that each site is measured individually. Some craftsmen mistakenly advise measuring the upper part of slopes by low tide

This position leads to problems with the size of the elements; they may be larger or smaller than the required indicator.

The work is carried out using a tape measure. The dimensions are immediately transferred to the prepared notebook. This is especially true if several windows are being finished at once.

Stage two - preparation

Careful preparation is necessary for window openings whose adjacent walls are made of brick or concrete slabs. Such structures are subject to numerous falls and are covered with cracks. The following manipulations are performed:

The polyurethane foam is cut off. It is removed flush with the window frame. This is done using a construction knife.
The general condition of all surfaces is assessed. If required, cracks and holes are covered with putty.
The formation of voids between the installed elements and the base must not be allowed.
The surface and seams are additionally treated with sealant. It is best to soak concrete and brick surfaces with an antiseptic, this will prevent the appearance of mold.

It is necessary to give some time for the applied materials to dry.

Before installing metal slopes, it is necessary to restore the integrity of the coating

Stage three - installation

The dimensions are transferred to metal strips that have the necessary bends. Each element is cut using metal scissors. The technology is as follows:

Finishing the slopes begins at low tide. This part is cut to the size of the window frame or less by one centimeter. The outer part is cut to the specified size of the opening, taking into account the allowance for the wall. The side parts are made with an allowance of one centimeter - they will need to be folded. The structure should be tilted away from the window.
The ebb is installed in its place. It turns out that it fits the surface well, with its side walls extending into the vertical areas. It is screwed to the frame using self-tapping screws.
Next, the side racks are installed. They are placed vertically, they must cover the curved sections of the ebb. Attached with screws.
The top part is inserted last. It is adjusted to the installed side strips and aligned with the outer corners. Secured with self-tapping screws.
Now you can apply sealant, which should reliably cover all adjacent areas of this structure.

Installation of metal slopes begins with the installation of low tide

It must be remembered that the sealing tape is pre-glued.

Thus, a beautiful and reliable cladding appears on the windows, which will play not only a decorative role, but also protect the surface from destruction.

External slopes made of metal are becoming increasingly common not only when finishing new plastic windows, but also in protecting wooden frames that have been in the house for a long time.

The variety of materials used in modern construction makes it difficult to choose among the possible options for installing protective coatings on exterior windows.

The most common of them are cement mortar or standard plastic panels. These are proven, low-cost ways to improve and secure window openings from the outside, and protect your home from moisture and dust.

Possible options

Metal slopes are durable

More and more people are choosing more expensive, but high-quality metal slopes, guided by their durability, resistance to natural influences, and the ability to retain color for decades if a polymer layer is applied to the metal. This saves time, gives the outside windows a relatively new look and serves as reliable protection. Metal slopes today are the best choice for external window installations.

The rather high cost of modern new windows does not always include installation and installation, and if it does, it is rarely of high quality, so after the departure of the craftsmen who brought new things for the apartment, the owner is horrified to discover that the apartment is a mess, the joints and holes have been repaired somehow, and there were still cracks on the outside, somehow filled in with polyurethane foam.

When installing, try not to leave any gaps

If this is the case in the summer, it’s not so bad; you just have to endure the dust and kill the mosquitoes. But if it’s cold and bad weather outside, and an icy wind blows in the remaining gaps and rain falls, then external slopes with their protective function become simply essential.

The high cost of a new window and its complete failure to fulfill its purpose poison all the pleasure from the acquired innovation. Like the old ones, they also do not provide any soundproofing, airtight, or aesthetic functions, and since their purchase has already depleted the budget, it is worth thinking about making external slopes with your own hands. This will save not only money, but also time spent searching for craftsmen who want to do such a small thing.

If you leave the window without slopes, the polyurethane foam will begin to deteriorate over time.

Before going to the construction market, you need to decide on the material from which the hypothetical external slopes will be planned. In the selection process, everything matters: the age, the quality of the windows, the wall in which they are installed, and the cash that can be safely allocated for this.

The most carefree owners leave the mounting foam, which over time breaks down, crumbles, and cracks form into which the dusty wind begins to blow in. If you don't close the outside windows right away, you'll have to think about replacing them in a few years.

Plastic panels are easy to cut and install

The most common options are:

plastic ones, which you can cut yourself from sheets purchased at a hardware store;
plastering – you can’t think of anything simpler than this;
siding, which will require lathing, but it is guaranteed that there will be no gaps left;
metal slopes, the most resistant and durable, which are made with colored polymer coating or from galvanized sheets;
wooden windows, appropriate with the appropriate material, and even better - in a cozy private house in the depths of the garden.

In order to impartially assess your capabilities, you should not only look into your wallet, but also check the tools available in the house, evaluate what is needed for the work in stock, and take a sensible look at your own skills and abilities.

When choosing the material from which external slopes for windows will be made, you should be guided not only by functionality, but also by reliability, performance properties, aesthetic and decorative components.

What is it and what function does it perform?

Attention Since the polyurethane foam used when installing a window cannot be used for a long time without protection - from environmental destruction, external slopes are made. Exposure to sunlight causes polyurethane foam to deteriorate over several months.

When the foam has lost its properties, energy efficiency is lost and the geometric position of the window in the window opening is disrupted, which will affect mechanical damage to the window control system

Exposure to sunlight causes polyurethane foam to deteriorate over several months. When the foam has lost its properties, energy efficiency is lost and the geometric position of the window in the window opening is disrupted, which will affect mechanical damage to the window control system.

Without external slopes, the foam is not only exposed to sunlight, but also exposed to moisture. For a short period of time, the foam is not susceptible to moisture penetration. But since the sun's rays harm it, it loses its properties, and there will be no obstacles to the penetration of moisture. Moisture penetrates the pores of the polyurethane foam and is destructive to it.

Since the foam has a porous base, moisture will penetrate into the room through it, albeit in small quantities. This will lead to the formation of fungus and mold on the walls due to condensation.

Based on all this, let’s say for sure that external slopes are necessary. The slopes will protect the walls from the effects of condensation; thanks to the slopes, the windows will be reliably protected from fogging. With slopes, heat and sound insulation increases, and the service life of the mechanical part of the window system is extended. Also, with their help, windows are given a neater appearance.

Why is it necessary to cover the polyurethane foam?

Despite the obvious advantages of installing external metal slopes, many homeowners delay this process for various reasons:

Not enough time;
On the advice of the craftsmen, paint over the foam;
Insufficient financial resources;
There is not enough experience to do it yourself, and inviting specialists is expensive.

But you need to know that polyurethane foam, if it is not protected, undergoes the following processes:

Destruction due to exposure to sunlight.
It loses its properties as a thermal and waterproofing material - saturation with moisture even by 5% reduces its ability to retain the internal heat of the house by half.

Therefore, mold and rot may appear on wooden windows, and metal-plastic structures will begin to freeze. The result of all this will be the replacement of windows and additional expenditure of money.

Finishing external slopes with metal with a polymer decorative layer has many positive aspects. The original color of the metal remains for several decades. Thanks to the existing protective polymer layer, the slope finishing elements do not rust and do not require periodic painting. They are easy to clean and also easy to install. Window-wall connections already sealed with mounting foam or sealing tape are reliably protected from external influences, as a result of which these materials retain their thermal insulation properties.

External slopes for PVC windows

In the last article, I talked about how to seal the gaps between a plastic window and the wall of a house on the street side. This stage has been completed, the foam is sealed and protected from fading in the sun.

The next step is plastic external slopes. They are beautiful and will also be additional protection for the window mount, which is a rather unreliable and drafty place in the entire structure.

Material:

U-profiles (cost pennies) for panels (8 mm, in my opinion)
Plastic panels (used surplus left over from finishing the loggia)
Polyurethane foam
Sealants
Primer

Tools:

Jigsaw
Foam gun (if the can was taken without a spout)
Caulking gun
A clear head and relatively straight arms
Tape measure/ruler/marker

Preparation

The slopes will cover the end part of the outer wall, so all three sides (top, right, left) must be carefully measured in order to cut a trapezoid from the panels.

Note!

You need to start from the top slope. It is the most fragile, due to the fact that it is forced to be suspended

The side ones will then hold it.

I got lazy, cut it anyhow, then smoothed the edges on the sharpening machine. It’s better to cut straight away, less waste, dirt and work. If you doubt the accuracy of your measurements, you can use cardboard.

After cutting all three parts, I packed them into U-profiles, which I put on the panels and cut them very evenly... with a grinder =). One touch - and the profile part is cut perfectly evenly, without chips or burrs.

In general, the method is not for everybody. Some people cut with a hacksaw, some with a knife, some with scissors. As I already said, I started the installation from the top of the slope, along the rough side of which I covered it with foam.

Installation

Next, with all the profiles attached to the panel, we firmly lean our slope against the previously primed and cleaned surface (plaster/slab/brick should not crumble). And so that it (the upper slope) does not fall, it needs to be thoroughly supported (I used old baseboards).

At this point, I removed the P-profile from the outer edge due to the foam that had come out (more precisely, I removed it myself and put it on later, after I had cleaned off the foam).

The tape pieces need to be prepared in advance. And just in case, some clear tape too. If the paint does not stick well to the wall, it can be reinforced with transparent (packaging). The foam dries very quickly, but I left it for a day, as recommended by the foam manufacturer.

You need to press the upper slope (and the rest too) against the wall (opening) very tightly. It’s the same problem with the side slopes: we pack them into profiles, glue them and press them hard. A lot depends on the condition of the opening. I came across a crooked one, the brick protrudes at the top, so gluing it was more difficult.

Note!

And let me remind you again: before installing external slopes on PVC windows, be sure to think about how you will fix the panels, and also prepare clean rags and acetone (cleaning liquid) in case of smeared foam.

The last flaws must be cleaned out immediately, before a yellow stain appears, which can be left on the plastic by polyurethane foam. And the gluing surface must be smooth, without holes, crumbs and protrusions.

I used glossy panels and they look very nice. But for internal slopes I recommend matte (or sandwich) ones. The tape must be peeled off the next day to prevent the glue from sticking in the sun.

Sealing of slopes

No matter how tightly the slope with the U-profile is pressed against the window frame, there are still gaps. As I read, people seal them with whatever they can: liquid plastic, sealants and even putty.

My gaps turned out to be narrow, and I coated them with acrylic sealant. It is washable and can be painted with a small brush to ensure reliability.

In the last photo you can see that the upper slope is covered (on top of the gap between the slab and the slope) with polyurethane sealant.

He definitely doesn’t care about the frost, water and sun. It wasn't necessary to do this, but just in case.

Note

I did not use the F-profile due to the unevenness of the wall. I was afraid of water flowing under it and the growth of black mold.

Polyurethane and acrylic sealants, as well as liquid plastic and similar pastes must be applied very carefully: without proper experience, it is easy to ruin the working surface. So first practice on something less valuable than new plastic windows

Advantages over other materials

There are several types of finishing materials, using which you can give the window opening a complete appearance. These are plaster, drywall, plastic and paint. But in terms of its technical characteristics, none of these materials can compare with metal slopes. When deciding how to make slopes, you need to study the characteristics of finishing materials.

The polymer layer of the steel slope protects the product from rust

When using plaster, you must be prepared for the fact that the plaster layer will crack over time. Moisture getting into the gaps between the window frame and the plaster layer can cause mold to appear.

Drywall as a finishing material for slopes is only suitable for interior work. Even GVLV brand drywall is not able to withstand the direct effects of precipitation. In a short time it will swell, lose its appearance and collapse.

The use of plastic panels for finishing external slopes leads to the fact that in the sun the plastic fades and acquires an unpleasant yellowish tint. And with a sharp drop in air temperature, the plastic becomes brittle and may lose its integrity after minor mechanical stress. Therefore, it is better to use plastic for finishing internal slopes, especially in the kitchen.

Metal slopes are not exposed to weather conditions

The advantages of metal slopes are obvious, since the material for their production is galvanized steel, which is covered with a protective polymer decorative layer at the production stage. This protects products from corrosion and rust.

Purpose of devices

External metal slopes for plastic windows are designed to protect polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation, precipitation, and being carried away by the wind.
If the foam is not covered, in a few years the material will be damaged, cold air will begin to enter the room, and the walls will become damp, increasing the risk of mold. After installation, it is necessary to install slopes on new windows; most often they are also plastic, less often metal. It is better to use metal to improve the interior. It is able to reliably and efficiently isolate the opening from external influences.

Metal slopes for plastic windows must be installed immediately. Many homeowners do not do this, believing that foam will cope without protection. This opinion is incorrect. The main reasons why installation is required immediately:

Aesthetically, the structure looks unattractive; the façade of the building looks untidy.
Polyurethane foam will deteriorate under the influence of sun, wind and precipitation.

Foam is not capable of acting as waterproofing; it must be protected from moisture, otherwise moisture will be absorbed and the window will freeze in cold weather. If for some reason the installation of metal slopes is not possible immediately, for example, the building is being renovated, the installed windows with fresh foam must be covered with at least plastic film until the slopes are installed.

Ready-made metal slopes