Woodworking machine table lifting mechanism

Most people who work professionally with wood would like to have all the necessary machines at their disposal. But unfortunately, this is not always possible. Some people don't have the space to do it, others, and I think the majority, it's money. Any, even the most primitive machine is quite expensive.

But what’s stopping you from just doing it yourself? Nothing is impossible for a person with intelligence. For every carpenter, a circular saw is the main tool. But it happens that only a hand saw is available, and this is not always convenient for large volumes of work. In order not to purchase a separate tool, you can make a stationary mini saw yourself for ease of work - make a sawing table (stand) for it.

Table saw

When choosing a circular saw, you need to be guided by the following characteristics:

• Saw power. If the amount of work is quite large, it is advisable to take a tool with a power of at least 1.2 kW.
• Cutting depth. The thickness of the material to be processed depends on this parameter. For hand saws it is 40–70 mm. But when installing it in a table there will be a decrease of around 10 mm.
• Button placement. The design of the sawing table must provide free and safe access to all control buttons, otherwise it will be necessary to modify the control system yourself.
• Rotational speed. For cutting wood, high rotation speed is preferred. This affects the cutting quality. For plastic, for example, this is not very good. Due to the high rotation speed of the circle, the plastic heats up. You need to choose average characteristics. 3-4 thousand rpm will be enough.

Materials

No less important than the drawings and mechanisms is the material from which the lifting table parts are made. Its strength and reliability, resistance to damage and climatic influences, weight and dimensions of the structure depend on this. So, the most popular types of materials in manufacturing are:

• Chipboard. Combines low price, functionality and pleasant appearance. The material is easy to process, the lightest working surface for a circular saw.
• Fiberboard. Choose slabs with at least a middle plane! Then the material will be as easy to process as chipboard, which will make it possible to produce parts of any shape and size. Environmentally friendly.
• Natural wood. Significantly more durable, although expensive, material. Suitable only for the appropriate interior.
• Glass. It looks original and stylish, takes up little space, and has ample opportunities for decoration. However, it is very important to choose durable glass, otherwise the final structure will be too fragile; Tempered glass is not inferior in strength to hard wood.
• Metal. The most durable and heaviest material, harder than others to process. Not recommended for home installation; although some small models are relevant for such modern stylistic trends as loft and high-tech.

Making a workbench

1. Mark and cut a tabletop of the required size from plywood. Clean the surface with sandpaper.
2. At the bottom of the tabletop we mark places for holes for attaching the saw. To do this, you need to remove the blade and install the saw in the right place, making notes. The holes for the bolts are countersunk on the surface, and the heads of the bolts need to be sanded.
3. If the material will be cut at different angles, the hole for the disk should be made in the shape of an inverted trapezoid.
4. Mark the places where the stiffening ribs are attached to the tabletop (from below, at a distance of about 8 cm from the edge). The legs need to be secured to the ribs. The ribs are screwed on with self-tapping screws at intervals of 25 cm and glued with PVA.
5. The legs are made from timber 100 cm long. Then a screed is made from timber for additional strength.
6. To be able to adjust the height of the table legs, nuts and M14 bolts are attached from below.
7. We fix the saw from below.
8. We attach the socket to the inside of the table. From it we pull the wire to the switch.
9. We make a parallel emphasis. We cut two strips of plywood, the same length as the width of the table. The width of the stripes is 10 cm. We make the corners round. We sand both strips and fasten them with self-tapping screws. Then we cut two strips of the same length, but three times wider. We fasten them. This will be the guide. We fasten the stop and guide. We set a right angle relative to the disk. We attach the rollers.

This is interesting

Sawing machine from a manual circular saw photo

At the base, parallel to the axis of rotation of the saw shaft, I chose a through groove with a width equal to the diameter of the fastening pin. On one side of the base, this pin is fixed with a nut and a large washer, passes through the support, and a nut and washer is also screwed onto it on top. If you need to move the tailstock, just loosen the top nut a little, install the headstock in the required place and tighten the nut again.

This allows the machine to process parts of different lengths. Then, on the support, on the strips of the shaft rotation axis, I installed a conical center to fix the workpiece being processed.

Sources:

https://stalcu.ru/svoimi-rukami/stanok-iz-ruchnoj-tsirkulyarki-svoimi-rukami.html

Table for hand-held circular saw with lifting mechanism

To change the depth of the cut, you can additionally install a lifting mechanism (elevator).

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The lifting mechanism itself is mounted from a metal sheet that is attached to the frame on the machine. Lifting will take place along the guides by tightening the bolts.

One way is to install the adjusting rod with fixation nuts. Instead of rods, we use studs. The adjustment handle is made from a plate welded to the end of the stud. At a distance of 4–5 mm from the center we make holes for self-tapping screws. We weld a rod to the edge of the plate, which we will use to rotate the structure.

Expansion of functionality

Let’s touch on the topic of expanding the functionality of the working structure you are making. If there is free space on the operating surface, additional woodworking equipment (an electric plane or router, for example) can be mounted. Having a plane and a wood router will allow you to expand the functionality of the machine and turn it into a full-fledged woodworking center.

In addition to this, such a milling cutter can be equipped with a special mechanism for adjusting the position of its working part, which can be changed within specified limits (the so-called elevator).

Sources:

https://stalcu.ru/svoimi-rukami/podemnyj-stol-dlya-tsirkulyarki-svoimi-rukami.html

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

• base;
• sawing table;
• parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel stop.

So, the rip fence is a moving part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw blade may become jammed.

In addition, the parallel stop of a circular saw must be of a rather rigid structure, since the master makes efforts to press the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

There are various designs of parallel stops depending on the methods of attaching it to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

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In this article we will examine the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular saw with one attachment point.

Stationary installation

A machine similar to factory models requires proper handling during the assembly process, so you need to take care of all the little things in advance. The desktop version of the “circular” differs from the stationary one only in the height of the bed, which is determined by the characteristics of the work and the size of future workpieces. One-time processing can also be done using an ordinary table saw, which after work can be easily put away in the pantry or shed. But a craftsman who constantly deals with wood will need a stationary installation. Therefore, he needs to make his own circular saw table.

The circular saw has the following advantages:

• Such equipment allows you to make better and deeper cuts.
• The machine is much more convenient than manual equipment.

From the above, we can conclude that self-made circular saws have a completely understandable and simple design, and the drawings, which can be found on the World Wide Web, will greatly simplify the process of assembling equipment. Before making a “circular” yourself, you should separately consider all the necessary elements in order to understand the nuances of the functioning and installation of home-made equipment.

Preparing for work

Before you begin, you need to decide on the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed during the work process.

The following tools will be used for work:

1. A circular saw or you can use a jigsaw.
2. Screwdriver.
3. Grinding machine.
4. Grinder (Angle grinder).
5. Jigsaw.
6. Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

During the work you will also need the following materials:

1. Chipboard.
2. Plywood.
3. Solid pine.
4. Steel tube with an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
5. Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
6. Two washers with an increased area and an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
7. Self-tapping screws.
8. Wood glue.

Manual device from an angle grinder

A lot of work is done with the popular grinder tool. This tool will make an indispensable DIY circular saw . It is enough to make a sliding stop from available material. The design assumes the presence of two small sections of corners that are located parallel to the disk. The connection is made using bolts, the gap is adjusted with supplied washers.

The band clamp is installed so that the screw location is at the bottom. Next, a strip of metal with a hole is attached; in another case, the structure may be uniform, but this way the thickness of the metal is lost. The next step is to cut holes in the body through which the handle is attached to perform basic work. A hand-made handle is a horn or bracket, based on a metal rod or pipe. It is also worth considering the riveting; if the ends are relaxed, the handle may bend during mechanical action on it.

Design of a circular saw stop

The entire structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.

The main technological solution of this stop is the principle of jamming using an eccentric and tightly pressing two transverse guides with an oblique end.

Fixation occurs by turning the eccentric mechanism.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure the strength of the structure and securely fix the entire rip fence.

The entire design is not trivial and consists of a large number of different parts, each of which has its own purpose and size.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

1. Transverse part

• The base of the transverse part;
• Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
• Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
• End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.

1. Longitudinal part

• Planar sliding element (laminated chipboard, 2 pcs.);
• The base of the longitudinal part;

1. Clamp

• Eccentric
• Eccentric handle

Making a circular saw

Preparation of blanks

It all starts with the fact that it is necessary to cut the workpieces to the specified dimensions.

A couple of points to note:

• flat longitudinal elements are made from laminated chipboard, and not from solid pine, like other parts.
• Two blanks of clamping strips are made with “oblique” ends (not 90º, but 63.5º).

Thus, we get the following set of blanks.

Eccentric clamp

Let's start making an eccentric clamp that rigidly fixes the guide.

We glue two blanks measuring 80x80 mm together.

Press with a clamp and let the glue dry. In the toga you get something like this.

Using a 22 mm feather drill, we drill a hole in the end for the handle.

In the center of the workpiece you need to make a blind (not through) hole 5 mm long.

It is better to do this by drilling, but you can simply hammer it with a nail.

The circular saw used for work uses a homemade movable carriage made of laminated chipboard (or, as an option, you can whip up a false table), which is not too bad to deform or damage. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.

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Thus, we have an improvised axis of rotation for our part, called the “eccentric” (although in this case, the filled hole is located strictly at the geometric center).

Then, putting the workpiece on an axle made of a nail, we begin to grind off the corners and excess material.

As a result, we get a smooth cylindrical workpiece that needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.

We make a handle - it is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Transverse part of the guide

Let's start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

• The base of the transverse part;
• Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
• Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
• End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.

Upper transverse clamping bar

Both clamping bars - upper and lower - have one end that is not straight 90º, but inclined (“oblique”) with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when cutting the workpieces.

The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

They are collected with glue.

And they are additionally fixed with self-tapping screws.

Lower transverse clamping bar

The lower transverse clamping bar is rigidly fixed to the base and serves to fix the guide by pressing against the upper transverse clamping bar.

Like the top bar, it also consists of two blanks.

We also assemble using glue and screws.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the ride and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding; in addition, you need to check the tightness of the inclined edges; There should be no gaps or cracks.

With a tight fit, the strength of the connection (fixation of the guide) will be maximum.

Assembling the entire transverse part

The cross guide bar of the cross guide is directly fixed to the circular table.

A transverse base is attached to this bar.

We assemble the entire structure using glue and screws.

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

• Planar sliding element (laminated chipboard, 2 pcs.);
• The base of the longitudinal part.

Planar sliding element

This element is made from laminated chipboard because the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), and is also denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, all that remains is to refine the edges. This is done using edge tape.

The technology for edging chipboard is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) and understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

The base consists of four longitudinal elements, as well as two vertical ones for installing an eccentric.

If you break it down into details, you get the following diagram.

We collect the previously sawed blanks for glue.

We also additionally fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to maintain a 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of transverse and longitudinal parts.

First you need to attach the substrate (longitudinal element) to the upper transverse clamping bar.

We fix it with glue and screws.

It's VERY MUCH here . It is important to maintain an angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Then we install the longitudinal base on the substrate.

We also fix it with glue and screws.

Installation of the eccentric

The eccentric is installed between two vertical elements on the longitudinal part.

A metal tube (future bushing) with an internal diameter of 6-10 mm must be placed in the eccentric itself.

We fix it with glue.

In addition to the bushings on the eccentric itself, you need to make similar bushings on the vertical elements, although, as an option (worst), you can use larger washers.

Additionally, a thrust block must be installed for better clamping.

Installing the guide

It's time to attach our entire structure to the circular saw. To do this, you need to attach the cross stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out using glue and self-tapping screws.

We install the moving part.

All that remains is to check that the angles are correct, and we consider the work completed.

... and we consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.

Assembling the frame with legs

The base or frame of the table is assembled from a set of transverse and longitudinal wooden beams, which are attached to the bottom of its lid, increasing the rigidity of the entire structure as a whole. For this, four bars with a cross-section of 50x50 mm, placed at a distance of about 7-9 cm from the edge of the table, are sufficient. They are fixed on the bottom of the lid with self-tapping screws of suitable size in increments of approximately 23-25 ​​cm. On its front side, the fastening elements are recessed into the material, completely hiding their hats. made stronger by pre-treating the mating surface of the bars with a layer of wood glue, carried out immediately before attaching them. After joining the glue-coated workpieces, the latter are securely fixed with clamps, which are removed immediately after the adhesive has dried. The legs of the structure can be made from bars of the same cross-section as the blanks for the frame (50x50 mm).

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The structure of the table must be strong and rigid

The shape of the legs is chosen so that they provide maximum support area for the frame part of the base and have a shape that tapers towards the flooring. On one of these legs, controls for turning the circular saw on and off are subsequently placed, duplicating the buttons located on its body.

You will be able to further increase the rigidity and stability of the entire structure with the help of a set of steel angles mounted in the area of ​​its butt joints. To secure them, it is recommended to use standard bolts with washers, which should preferably be installed with their heads facing outward.